Auto Trans slips/flairs in 1-2 shift

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dave moore

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My 2001 4x2 with tow package and 157,00 miles slips/flares when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This is more noticeable when the engine is cold or with harder acceleration. It seems less noticeable but present when the motor is warm. I last had the transmission serviced at the dealer around 75,000 miles with a flush and filter change. After reading older posts here I thought I should:

1. disconnect battery for 30 min

2. change fluid and filter and replace with Mercon (and add a drain plug)

3. replace valve body and solenoid, and consider an upgraded valve body gasket?



Any suggestions? Do these transmissions have adjustable bands like the old C-4s did?
 
Dont mess with any adjustments. the 5r55e is all electronic.

If they didnt during the service. I would upgrade the gasket. Maybe change the solenoids.

You can try the project on increasing the epc preasure.

The flair shift is usually 2 to 3. you may have a sticking solenoid or the valve body gasket it leaking. For the 1 to 2 shift.
 
Dave,

Eddie is correct. If you did not have the transmission service for 75K miles, you are way past due... at least 2 times over. Ford recommends servicing the transmission every 30K miles. Oddly, they actually don't state that you need to change the fluid at 30K miles just check it and change if the fluid looks bad and smells burnt???



I have had two Gen1 Sport Trac's and I found that the 5R55E tranny should have the fluid flushed every 20K-25K miles regardless of how the fluid looks. The early Sport Trac transmission was trouble proned especially on sticking solenoids and leaking valvebody gaskets. My first step would be to have the fluid flushed. If they tranny filter has 100K miles or more, I would also drop the pan and change the filter I would also look to change the filter too. If you normally get a fluid flush about every 25K miles, your trann filter will easily last about 100K miles. If you do not change or flush the fluid on a regular basis, you are compromising the integrity of the filter and risking damaging the tranny.



...Rich
 
I don't agree with some who suggest getting an oil flush and some filter will fix your flare. You will waste your money doing it, then sending in another mechanic to remove it again for some other repair. You need a transmission expert look at it, but I would not worry about it at all if OD light doesn't blink, to me that's when it can be expensive. If you know the codes and an honest mechanic, then you'll be able to troubleshoot carefully.
 
Thanks guys. I unplugged the battery for 30 minutes which didn't change anything. I just purchased a filter and synthetic Mercon V. I have to find a local parts store that has an upgraded valve body gasket and transmission pan drain plug retrofit in stock. Luckily. it's 70+ degrees in the milwaukee area today.
 
Thanks guys. I unplugged the battery for 30 minutes which didn't change anything. I just purchased a filter and synthetic Mercon V. I have to find a local parts store that has an upgraded valve body gasket and transmission pan drain plug retrofit in stock. Luckily. it's 70+ degrees in the milwaukee area today.
 
Max Trax,

You are free to disagree, but if the tranny fluid is contaminated and burnt (probably so after 75K miles) that is the first step, and it is not a waste of money. Even if that does not cure the problem, the new fluid can be saved an put back into the transmission. Most problems with shift flare are caused by sticking soleniods and valves withing the valvebody which can be removed and replaced by simply dropping the pan and putting that fluid back into the transmission...so nothing is wasted.



Many times the shifting problems are caused by bad, worn out transmission fluid, and simply flushing the fluid or at the least dropping the pan and changing the fluid often cures the problem.



Taking the vehicle to a transmission shop will almost always involve expensive internal repairs since that's where most transmission shops make their money. They don't use their high $$ tranny techs to do fluid flushes and changes...That job goes to the trainee or the lowest guy on the payroll.



...Rich
 
Thanks guys. I unplugged the battery for 30 minutes which didn't change anything. I just purchased a filter and synthetic Mercon V. I have to find a local parts store that has an upgraded valve body gasket and transmission pan drain plug retrofit in stock. Luckily. it's 70+ degrees in the milwaukee area today.
 
I changed the filter, Adjusted the EPC, retrofitted an oil pan drain plug, and added fully synthetic Mercon V. I was unable to obtain a new valve body gasket today.



It no longer flairs at all with light throttle and flairs about 50% less with medium throttle.

I think I'll give it a day or two to see if the condition improves.



In the meantime, I ordered a new valve body gasket. If I replace that and the condition doesn't improve, should I replace all of the solenoids next for $260 or for $380 purchase a rebuilt valve body complete with new solenoids?



Thanks for all your help guys... Time for a beer!
 
For the differeence of $120. I would get the complete rebuilt valve body. Most of our members have gone this way. With high milage.

You might have to get a trans shop to set up the correct pressures. Unless they are set, when the valve-body is benched. IDK....
 
It drove good today, only mild 1-2 flair under medium-hard acceleration. But, the flashing OD started, so I pulled over and shut the engine off for a minute. After I started up again, the OD light did not flash at all. Hopefully the Valve Body Gasket and transmission repair manual that I ordered from hardparts.com will show up by saturday. Has anybody here purchased a valve body assembly from them? Any good or poor reviews?
 
I changed both of the valve body gaskets and inspected the servos and valves. The servos and valves were scuff free without signs of build up. After reinstalling the flaring is completely gone. It has been good for 5 days and hundreds of miles now. Thanks for everyone's advice... It paid off...
 

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