bags almost done, pics

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Looks done to me..:)

Looking good...

Todd Z
 
i have to put in my panhard bar tommorrow and re route an air line and retape some leaky fittings. I was able to use the stock shocks. Rides good and handles great
 
a few questions...



(1) is it a ridetech susp?? Whatever brand it is, which parts did you use..



(2) My goal is not to lay body, but just to lower when i want... would I still need to notch out the frame like you did (i wouldn't think so) or do any other modifications???



any other helpful info would be great.. U gonna do a project writeup?

Thanks

JM
 
Looks good man .. I think you should take that notch up a ways. Put a true step notch in because sooner pr later your going to want to go lower. Might as well do it right the 1st time.
 
jason mastro:

they dont make any kit for the sport trac. i just got pieces of a step notch and upper and lower bag brackets and cut them to fit.

u can get low without a small notch like mine but its not that low.



that notch is ok, yeah if im hit from the rear hard it might fold, its boxed on the backside



im gonna end up redoing the link bars/bag brackets but i wont need any more notch

( 23 ballistic) I did not want to cut the bed yet. i have to redesign the link bars and it will tuck the tire into the fenderwell, i still got an inch to go in the notch. Its a start, temporary but working. of course with me temporary means run it till it breaks and then finish it ;)
 
Gavin and TJR-

Belive it or not, as long as the welds are sound, step-notches installed on frames makes the frame stronger. The notches are typically at least the same gauge of metal as the frame, if not thicker, and fully boxed. I've seen a few bagged truck get into accidents and it's the suspension components (panhard bars, link bars, etc) that fail and get torn up, not the frame.



Tony...looks good so far. How low do you get? Have you thought about a raised tranny x-member?
 
Tiger, from the pics I could only see the cut-out notch on the frame, not anything welded back into the frame in or arouond the notche so I assumed the worst. It sounds like you are saying that something is welded onto the frame next to the notch.
 
that above is a step notch.

i used the bottom part of a step notch and plated it on the backside of the framerail. It will hold up fine for me. Im not hauling any cars around on my goosneck.



Tiger:

It gets as low as i wanted to go for now. i had to move the rearend back 1" because the driveshaft was bottoming out the yoke against the tranny tailhousing. I could notch some more, cut the bed, 4 link it, and drag frame. The front would be a major undertaking to get it to lay though, raise upper and lower control arms or z frame ( not what i have in mind ). THe trans crossmember doesnt touch the ground. I got to get some titanium blocks to drag up front to throw some sparks :cool:



And as side note-- I got the panhard in this afternoon and re did some airlines, no more rear end shifting and the handling is awesome. You guys with these EE swaybars got nothing on the handling i am experiencing.:D
 
oh and i am going to a show here in southaven, ms saturday and ill get some pics of it and some of my friends trucks as well and post them up so you all can see what it looks like clean and with all the center caps on the wheels :rolleyes:

I'll even polish up the weels
 
23ballistic--

what did you use to / how did you do it, as far as sheetmetal/ smoothing the bed inside??? id like to do something like that but havent come up with a way to work with the plastic bedfloor yet.
 
Tony- inside the bed of mine we actually did a lot of fiberglass work because we smoothed the ed caps into it also. The fiberglass bed makes life alot harder when doing custom work.Where you from Tony?
 
23ballistic-

Where you from Tony?



Hernando, MS.

I'll be in a show they are having called "Shootout" sponsored by Silver Star Customs here in Southaven, MS on saturday.
 

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