Belated introduction (9 years late)

[Duncan Kimbro]

So I joined the site back in 2010 when I bought my 2003 ST, but wasn’t very active. That 16-year old truck now has 140,000 miles on it and is still going pretty strong but is showing some age (kind of like me!).

I’ve spent a lot of time reading up on some of the old projects lately (including on the Internet Wayback Machine so I can see some of the photos that didn’t migrate to the new site), as I consider how far I want to go in getting a few more years of life out of it. I’d like to get the kids though college and off of my “payroll” (about 5 years away) before I consider a new(er) vehicle.

For the old-timers who are still around, thanks for all you’ve posted over the years. The information I’ve learned has saved me a lot of time and money.

- Duncan in Tennessee

 

[EddieS'04]

Duncan, welcome back...

 

[Duncan Kimbro]

Thanks Eddie!

 

[Todd Z]

HEY HEY !! welcome back.... its slow here but some of us are still here....

 

[Mattee]

So I joined the site back in 2010 when I bought my 2003 ST, but wasn’t very active. That 16-year old truck now has 140,000 miles on it and is still going pretty strong but is showing some age (kind of like me!).

I’ve spent a lot of time reading up on some of the old projects lately (including on the Internet Wayback Machine so I can see some of the photos that didn’t migrate to the new site), as I consider how far I want to go in getting a few more years of life out of it. I’d like to get the kids though college and off of my “payroll” (about 5 years away) before I consider a new(er) vehicle.

For the old-timers who are still around, thanks for all you’ve posted over the years. The information I’ve learned has saved me a lot of time and money.

- Duncan in Tennessee

Glad to here this site is still going, just found out about it a few weeks ago, I'm probably not the newest member, but close to it. Thanks to all for the help, on starting to slowly add all sorts of goodies to my "new" sport trac (2005 4x4) as I plan to keep it "forever". I also have a (2002 2x4) since 2002, Which was going to be my "forever" vehicle, but just had to have the 4x4 to deal with the snow and ice. Just to let you know... not be a worry about "getting a few more years of life out if it... My 2002 has a little over 250,000 miles on it and still runs like a top! If I didn't misplace my keys a month ago, it would be even more! Again thanks to everyone for your help and advice.
Mattee

 

[Duncan Kimbro]

Thanks Mattee. I have no doubt it will keep going. The biggest question Is how much money and effort I’m willing to put into an older truck that is worth a lot more to me than its book value.

 

[Mattee]

I am "thinking" even when the engine goes... I would rather put in $5K for a new engine and get another 10 years out of it. I guess the only way this makes sense if plan to get your money back from lots of years of use? Plus have you seen the price of new trucks and it's insurance lately!!!

 

[Duncan Kimbro]

That’s the calculus I’m gong through. I’ve got what I think is probably the rear timing chain rattle. I’m going to try a new tensioner and see if that helps. For the cost of replacing the timing chains and seals/gaskets to fix minor leaks, I can almost replace it with a Ford warranted remanufactured engine, so at the moment, I’m planning to drive until it dies. The cost of new ones chokes me. Even the cost of used 2nd gen STs with moderate miles seems too high. And let’s not discuss insurance. I added a 17-year old boy and a 2016 Fusion to my policy this week. That was a $2000 bump, even with high deductibles.

 

[swshawaii]

Duncan, most reliable sources recommend timing chain hydraulic tensioner replacement around 70,000 to 80,000 miles. Rear is Ford 7U3Z-6K254-A and front is 7U3Z-6K254-B. Consensus is to spend a little more money and only use OE Ford replacements. I've read about issues even using reputable aftermarket brands such as Cloyes and Borg Warner. Also order the XU2Z-6M252-A crush washers because they are not included with the OE tensioners. Regarding priming, I did not and held the accelerator to the floor while cranking the starter until the "idiot" oil pressure light went off. Also tripped the inertia switch just in case it fired to prevent over revving. Start threading by hand, and make sure the washer is PERFECTLY centered to prevent leaking. Torque seems to vary because of leaking, but factory spec is 32 foot pounds using new crush washers, or 49 ft/lbs. when re-using the washers. Regarding the front tensioner, I averted disaster last week by only REMOVING mine. I'll start a separate thread with lot's of pics since I emailed Eddie who is also interested. Good luck.

 

[Duncan Kimbro]

Duncan, most reliable sources recommend timing chain hydraulic tensioner replacement around 70,000 to 80,000 miles. Rear is Ford 7U3Z-6K254-A and front is 7U3Z-6K254-B. Consensus is to spend a little more money and only use OE Ford replacements. I've read about issues even using reputable aftermarket brands such as Cloyes and Borg Warner. Also order the XU2Z-6M252-A crush washers because they are not included with the OE tensioners. Regarding priming, I did not and held the accelerator to the floor while cranking the starter until the "idiot" oil pressure light went off. Also tripped the inertia switch just in case it fired to prevent over revving. Start threading by hand, and make sure the washer is PERFECTLY centered to prevent leaking. Torque seems to vary because of leaking, but factory spec is 32 foot pounds using new crush washers, or 49 ft/lbs. when re-using the washers. Regarding the front tensioner, I averted disaster last week by only REMOVING mine. I'll start a separate thread with lot's of pics since I emailed Eddie who is also interested. Good luck.

Perfect, thanks!

I’m overdue at 140,000 miles. Regarding the crush washers, I’m assuming it’s the same for both front and rear, since the parts diagram at parts.ford.com only shows the rear washer.

 

[swshawaii]

Exact same washer and part number. Rear is easy to keep centered with a little bearing grease. Front is trickier because of the downward angle and confinement. I'll post my experience and dilemma with the front tensioner R&R soon. Unbelievable.

 

[swshawaii]

Leak vs. No Leak ( Note hex clock position)