Brake Pads and Rotors

Ford SportTrac Forum

Help Support Ford SportTrac Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Garry Moss

Active Member
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
277
Reaction score
0
Location
San Pablo, CA
Hello MYST'ers



I have two questions, I need to replace my rear rotors because I looked today and see a groove developing on the rear drive side rotor. Question 1 is how hard is it to replace the rotors and pads....Have done other brakes on vehicles b4 but never on my 2004 Sport Trac 4WD V6. Can I use a C-Clap on the caliper to pop it back in place? Also a question on the pads, now Im going with ThermoQuiets and two part numbers are coming up for my truck, one is for steel pistons, the other for Phenolic. I assume mine are the steel correct? Thanks peeps!
 
2004-05 rear calipers use PHENOLIC pistons with smaller inner pad clips. Easy job if the rotors or parking brake shoes aren't stuck, make sure the parking brake is released.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So its safe to assume that these would be the correct pads? I hear The themaquiets are good



Wagner ThermoQuiet MX667A Semi-Metallic Disc Pad Set, Rear
 
If one side wore downtothe rotor before the other. I would replace or rebuild the calipers. One or the other is sticking.
 
Excellent pads. The MX667A are correct for phenolic pistons, MX667 for steel. Agree with Eddie, inspect the calipers and slide pins carefully, very often neglected and prone to sticking.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Now I think last question, but I usually work with steel pistons so I am not sure about the Phenolic, is there a safe way to press the pistons back into the caliper? I will def look at replacing the calipers too. Thanks for the heads up!
 
I was wrong about the last questions, still advisable to spray the back of the pads with a brake quiet spray on these newer pads these days?
 
Open the bleeders and push them in by hand. If you don't, all the contaminants are being back flushed through the ABS system and master cylinder. If too difficult by hand, use a thin block of wood with your C-clamp. Should you decide to replace calipers, check out the NAPA Total Eclipse line. Cheap, powder coated, and local with a lifetime warranty. Check the link below to see what remains in the bores AFTER flushing. BTW, my caliper "rebuild" attempt did not help, still had a smoking hot rotor until I replaced them with NAPA semi loaded calipers. TQ pads have molded in shims, brake quiet compound is not recommended or needed. Make sure to use specific silicone brake lube or SylGlyde on the caliper hardware and abutment clips. DO NOT use regular grease or anti seize that will gum up and cause sticking and binding.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Latest posts

Top