Keola P
Well-Known Member
Hi Guys, hope all is well. Getting ready to change out my front brake pads when I get off of work. Don't have much experience with brakes yet, but I hear it's faily simple. Any advice/tips before I dive in? :banana:
Changing Brake Pads
- Thread starter Keola P
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EddieS'04
In Memoriam 1950-2022
Open the bleeders before pushing the pistons in. Try to push them by hand, so you can tell if they move freely.
Be best to remove the bleeders. As so no old fluid backs up in the abs system.
Be sure to use High temp brake grease on an metal to metal points that slide. Also on the pins.
If you havent yet bleed to whole system rear and front with fresh fluid. Dont let the resevior go empty, whille bleeding.
Be best to remove the bleeders. As so no old fluid backs up in the abs system.
Be sure to use High temp brake grease on an metal to metal points that slide. Also on the pins.
If you havent yet bleed to whole system rear and front with fresh fluid. Dont let the resevior go empty, whille bleeding.
Simple? Yes, but don't just slap new brake pads in and call it a brake job.
1st rule: Don't just push the caliper pistons back in....You don't want old contaminated fluid backing up into your ABS which can cause some very expensive damage. Open the bleed nut (or remove it) and push the old fluid out of the calipers. Yes, this means that you will need to bleed the brakes when you are done, but you need to flush the fluid anyway, so it's a no-brainer.
2nd rule: Flush the brake fluid at all 4 wheels....once you see the cruddy look of the brake fluid coming out you will know why. This can be done in conjuction with bleeding your brakes. Start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder and move the the next closest wheel, etc. That usually means, right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
3rd rule: Be sure to use high temperature brake grease to lube the places where the metal backing plate of the tab contacts any point on the caliper....this includes the slide rails and pins.
4th rule: Inspect the brake rotors to ensure there are no scratch or gouges deeper than the thickness of a business card...If there are, you need to have the rotors turned or replaced depending upon thickness. If you get any vibration or pulsing when you apply the brakes, your rotors are warped and should be turned or replaced. It's cheaper to turn the rotors, but replacing the rotors usually guarantees that the brake job will last longer. Rotors that have been turned tend to warp faster since they tend to get much hotter.
The only part of a brake job that can be hard for a rookie is seeing potential problems before they actually occur....That only comes with experience.
...Rich
1st rule: Don't just push the caliper pistons back in....You don't want old contaminated fluid backing up into your ABS which can cause some very expensive damage. Open the bleed nut (or remove it) and push the old fluid out of the calipers. Yes, this means that you will need to bleed the brakes when you are done, but you need to flush the fluid anyway, so it's a no-brainer.
2nd rule: Flush the brake fluid at all 4 wheels....once you see the cruddy look of the brake fluid coming out you will know why. This can be done in conjuction with bleeding your brakes. Start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder and move the the next closest wheel, etc. That usually means, right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
3rd rule: Be sure to use high temperature brake grease to lube the places where the metal backing plate of the tab contacts any point on the caliper....this includes the slide rails and pins.
4th rule: Inspect the brake rotors to ensure there are no scratch or gouges deeper than the thickness of a business card...If there are, you need to have the rotors turned or replaced depending upon thickness. If you get any vibration or pulsing when you apply the brakes, your rotors are warped and should be turned or replaced. It's cheaper to turn the rotors, but replacing the rotors usually guarantees that the brake job will last longer. Rotors that have been turned tend to warp faster since they tend to get much hotter.
The only part of a brake job that can be hard for a rookie is seeing potential problems before they actually occur....That only comes with experience.
...Rich
EddieS'04
In Memoriam 1950-2022
Rich, detailed more of what I said. Plus added some info.:bwahaha:
Keola P
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info gents! I have almost 59,000 miles on the trac so far. Recently got my front wheels aligned for a recon inspection. Got the wheels aligned and replaced the upper and lower ball joints with the ones made by Moog. Tech told me the brake pads will need to be replaced soon, so I'm taking the liberty of changing them myself. The rotors still look pretty clean with no obvious damage, so I wont be changing them out just yet.
Like I mentioned, I have never worked on brakes before, but I've done everything else on my Trac including changing out the stock shocks, replacing the rear sway bar, 3 in. drop/TT, open air intake, plugs/wires, etc. so I'm pretty confident. Just a little apprehensive with the brakes since it's a pretty crucial.
Just a quick update, I posted a couple of months back about a ticking/clicking noise between 1500-2000 rpm. The ticking/clicking noise eventually progressed to a rattle coming from my exhaust system. Found out the front passenger side pre cat was shot. Was debating wether or not I should change it out with another oem cat, or upgrade to a y pipe. Took it over to my local performance exhaust guy and he offered me a cost effective solution. Had the pre cats cut out and the y pipe rewelded. Works like a charm! Opened things up quite a bit, slightly more top end power and a throatier sound. Hasn't thrown any codes. Will be changing out the rear cat and muffler soon.
Like I mentioned, I have never worked on brakes before, but I've done everything else on my Trac including changing out the stock shocks, replacing the rear sway bar, 3 in. drop/TT, open air intake, plugs/wires, etc. so I'm pretty confident. Just a little apprehensive with the brakes since it's a pretty crucial.
Just a quick update, I posted a couple of months back about a ticking/clicking noise between 1500-2000 rpm. The ticking/clicking noise eventually progressed to a rattle coming from my exhaust system. Found out the front passenger side pre cat was shot. Was debating wether or not I should change it out with another oem cat, or upgrade to a y pipe. Took it over to my local performance exhaust guy and he offered me a cost effective solution. Had the pre cats cut out and the y pipe rewelded. Works like a charm! Opened things up quite a bit, slightly more top end power and a throatier sound. Hasn't thrown any codes. Will be changing out the rear cat and muffler soon.
EddieS'04
In Memoriam 1950-2022
Sounds as if your handy with tools. You will do good.
As always post any question you have. Knowledgable folks are always trolling here.
This is a good site..:supercool:
No one ever belittles anyone for not knowing. :haveabeer:
As always post any question you have. Knowledgable folks are always trolling here.
This is a good site..:supercool:
No one ever belittles anyone for not knowing. :haveabeer:
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2009
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- 5,641
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- What engine do you have?
- V6 engine
- What year is your Sport Trac?
- 2005
- What Generation is your Sport Trac?
- 1st Gen Owner
Howzit Keola! :supercool: Also plan on repacking the wheel bearings while you have them removed.
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Keola P
Well-Known Member
Hi Steve! Thanks for the tip. Any special tools/materials required for that particular task? Like I said, I haven't ventured into the world of brakes yet so I'll have a better idea when I start taking things apart. Got another 3 hrs. left at "work".
EddieS'04
In Memoriam 1950-2022
Keola, here is a pdf for 4x2 front wheel bearings.[Broken External Image]:
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2009
- Messages
- 5,641
- Reaction score
- 518
- Location
- Kailua-Oahu, Hawaii
- What engine do you have?
- V6 engine
- What year is your Sport Trac?
- 2005
- What Generation is your Sport Trac?
- 1st Gen Owner
Thanks Eddie, can always count on you. :driving:
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Keola P
Well-Known Member
Damn, thanks Fast Ed!! Sure appreciate all the useful info. Gonna get ready to head out and do this.
Eddie is right - anyone who is good with tools can change front brake pads.
Safety: since you will take the front wheels off, be sure to use jack stands to support the front of the vehicle, and chocks on the rear wheels.
Safety: since you will take the front wheels off, be sure to use jack stands to support the front of the vehicle, and chocks on the rear wheels.
John Zuber
Active Member
If the rotors look good, I usually wet sand them to remove the glaze. It sounds like a lot of work, but it usually goes fairly quick. I try not to turn rotors unless its really necessary. I have around 60K miles and my rotors look almost new. Of course in Florida we have no declines to fight.
EddieS'04
In Memoriam 1950-2022
Ditto john z.
This is what I use on rotors that arent in need of turning or replacement.
[Broken External Image]:
This is what I use on rotors that arent in need of turning or replacement.
[Broken External Image]:
