Class II Tow Hitch upgrade

[Phillip Zbaraz]

Greetings Fellow Members;



I just found this site and was hoping that I might find some information that I can use that will solve the situation I am having with the upgrade to a Class III tow hitch. I just purchased this vehicle and was told by the sales staff that I will be able to tow up to 5000+ lbs. My current boat and trailer weighs in about 3,500 (2011 Crownline Bowrider 18', 4.3L Mercruiser, single axle Heritage trailer). Usual tow is 1 hour a day, 3 days a week, during the summer (Chicago area). What I have found since I purchased this S/T is that I am not alone in wanting to upgrade to a Class III and that it is not going to happen quickly or cheaply. The good news is that because the Sales staff admitted to telling me that it was an easy process, they are just now starting to see what they can do to help (I purchased it from a local Ford Dealer).....anyhow, can anyone tell me how this is going to end? I just don't want to tow at the very max of my current hitch rating.



Thanks in advance for any help/advice/resources you can provide.

 

[A K]

The sales staff will say whatever it takes to make a sale.



The Class II hitch also serves as a rear frame crossmember. To add a Class III, the shop will have to cut out the Class II crossmember, grind the frame for a smooth surface on each side, and weld in a Class III crossmember. Paint the bare surfaces to prevent rust, and then you're good to go. The good news is that, if properly done, a weld is stronger than the metal it joins, so you will not have to worry about strength.

 

[Phillip Zbaraz]

Thanks Adam....



So they actually do not cut the crossmember? This sounds like a plan...now I have to find a reputable shop with an master-welder.



p.

 

[Wayne Costin]

I had a co-worker's husband (who welds) cutout the 1 1/4 receiver and weld-in a 2 inch receiver. Then I had a local shop redo the wiring in the back to accomodate the brake controller I had installed. Whole project cost me around $250-300. About 1/4 of what the dealer would have charged JUST to change out the hitch. I have a post back in February showing a picture.



Since then, I have towed my 18 foot camper from South Carolina to the Florida Keys and recently hauled a trailer with a Harley and golf cart from Indiana to South Carolina. The Trac has done great!

 

[Wayne Costin]

Here is the pic:



[Broken External Image]:

 

[Phillip Zbaraz]

Thanks again.....just out of curiosity, what is the most weight you have pulled with this new hitch?



p.

 

[Wayne Costin]

My camper is around 3400 pounds, so fully loaded for our trip, I would guess that everything weighed about 4000-4200 pounds. My camper has dual axles, which takes a lot off the tongue weight, which is around 250 pounds. Plus, I also had a WD hitch setup as well.



I bought a scangauge to keep an eye on the tranny temp during the trip. Driving on the interstate with overdrive off the temp averaged around 185. Once I got down to the Miami area and it was warm and stuck in traffic the most it spiked to was around 205, but most of the time was around 195 in stop and go traffic.



I definitely feel camper behind me, but the ST did great.

 

[Wayne Costin]

BTW- I trust the weld on this fabrication job much better than I do with someone I don't know cutting the hitch (or crossmember if you want to call it that) completely off and re-welding it back on.