CV axle life - Gen1

[Dean Hedin]

2003 at 99k miles



I am trying to troubleshoot a clunk that i hear on my left front driver's side.

I hear this clunk when turning left and pulling into the driveway as I hit the ramp.

I don't hear it any other time. If I drive down the road a swing the steering wheel back and forth I don't hear anything.



So I pulled off the wheel and probed around with a crow bar.

Nothing wrong with ball joints, sway links, upper sway arm bushings, etc..

Ball joints were replaced at 80k.



Finally, I turned the rotor back and forth and noticed a lot of play in the CV axle. The clunk sounds similar to what I hear when I pull into the driveway.

So if I hold the u-joint in the front diff and turn the rotor and I can see the play in the CV axle.



I don't have any torn boots. Does 100k miles seem a reasonable replacement interval?



Is there something else I should check? How much play in the CV axle is bad?

 

[swshawaii]

Recall a very similar clunk I chased for one year. Only occurred moving at slow speeds going over small bumps and turning right into driveways. Culprit was the passenger side

rear UCA camber nut backed off 1/8" causing the noise. Found it by accident while rotating tires, front suspension must be unloaded. Torqued back to spec at 98 ft/lbs. and used

blue Loctite for prevention. Broken sway bar end links also make a similar sound although you said they were checked. Hit them with the front wheels off the ground to be sure. GL

 

[Dean Hedin]

This is definitely driver's side. Also should mention it is not body mount noise. Body mounts were changed a few weeks ago.

 

[swshawaii]

Then check your DRIVER side upper control arm bolts. Check for loose shocks too.

 

[Scott Tanner]

I've had the heads pop off of the uca bolts....... Not good

 

[Dean Hedin]

I did pry between the upper control arm pivots points and the frame. Didn't see anything loose. I'll check them again tomorrow. Could be they are moving inward/outward and I might have to pry differently to see that. I'll check the bolt tightness also.



Shocks are 1 yr old Rancho 9000's...they are bolted in fine, and they better not be defective!



I do wonder about the play in the axle CV. There is definitely rotational play between the inner cv and the axle itself.

 

[swshawaii]

Also check the caliper anchor plate bolts.

 

[Yardsale]

Are the wheels turned fully. If so, it may be the steering stops. Put a dab of grease on both sides to rule it out.



There will be some play in the drive train (the parts have to move, and there is normal wear). How much is acceptable, I don't know, but 1/8" would be my curiosity point. How much is your "a lot"?

 

[Richard L]

I agree with Yardsale...Check the Steering Stops. This is where there is a metal to metal contact that limits the maxium you can turn the wheels, left and right. These contact point need a dab of grease to prevent them from making noise when turning the wheels full right or left and going over a bump...like pulling into a driveway, etc. This has been a common problem with Gen-1 Sport Tracs.



...Rich

 

[Dean Hedin]

Wheels are not fully turned when I turn into the driveway. It's only that the front left wheel is hitting the driveway ramp first.



I haven't yet had the chance to get back in there and check again (it raining here now).



I did go out an reached under to see if there was similar cv axle play on the passenger side. There did not seem to be, but I think I would like to pull the wheel to be sure.



The amount of play between the inner CV and the axle on the driver's side is hard to state. 1-2 degrees of rotational play maybe? It's definitely loose compared to the outer CV. There is more play between the inner CV and the axle than there is backlash in the front diff.

 

[Yardsale]

In my experience, which is limited with respect to CVs, they tend to

"clunk-clunk-clunk ..." while in the position that they would clunk (not a single clunk). However, if the position is one of transition (e.g., hitting a bump), then there may be just the one clunk during that transition. If so, your suspicion may be correct.



What to do? To me, this depends on whether you can do the repair yourself (once diagnosed). If you can't, or don't want to, maybe take it somewhere. If you can do the repair yourself, but aren't sure what is the problem, maybe take it somewhere for diagnosis (typically one hour labor charge). This can limit the number of unsuccessful attempts of throwing parts at the problem.

 

[Dean Hedin]

The best I can determine it's the driver side CV axle. Today I pried around with a crowbar and shook everything and the CV the only thing makes a clunk like the one I hear. Looking online I see that there should be little or no play in the cv axle and in my case I have plenty.



I wonder if I should change them both while I am at it. I see that Advance Auto has a "Cyber Monday" discount where I can get them for about $52 each with free shipping.

 

[Yardsale]

If you are sure of the defect and can do the repair yourself, do it. If it were me, I'd probably replace both and be done with it (in fact, I did).