Fuel System Failure

[Mike Martin]

2004 ST, 4.0 motor, factory. Went to start it last week, crank, spark, but no fuel. idled on a shot of ether from the can. Figured it was the pump, dropped the tank and new pump and NOTHING. So, remembering what I should have done FIRST, checked for power. No power at pump connector, or at fuel pump module over spare tire. Fuel pump relay checked, swapped out anyway, nothin. Inertia switch appears OK as well. I believed it was the fuel rail pressure sensor ($90), but still nothin. I'm at wits end and ready to tow it to Ford.



Anybody with any suggestions, send them my way. I really want to get this fixed without having to resort to the dealer. Later today I will bang on the inertia switch and hit the red button a bunch of times as suggested by some other posts. I'm worried it might be the Power Control Module (PCM), but weird thing I've got good spark and idle with ether, and not engine lights or weird stuff that usually comes with a PCM failure.



Thanks in advance. My first real problem with the ST. I can now drop the fuel tank in my sleep. (Trick is jack up driver's side frame, and use a transmission jack or motorcycle jack if you have one available).



BTW: anyone looking for a 61K fuel pump, I will probably have that for sale cheap once I get the truck figured out. Orig owner, garage kept, maintained above and beyond; fuel pump probably last another 100k.



Mike

 

[scott degroot]

First thing to remember when checknig for power at the fuel pump or anywhere on the + side of the fuel pump circuit is that there will not be any power unless the key is first cycled on or the engien is cranking. When you first turn the key to the run position the pcm energizes the fuel pump relay, power then travels to the fuel pump inertia switch via the orange/ light green wire then goes to the fuel pump driver module...there will only be power for approx 2 seconds when the key is turned to the run position. Power will not be present again unless the key is cycled off for about 10 seconds adn then turned back to the run position or the engine is cranking. Check for power at the inertia switch first.

 

[EddieS'04]

Try bypassing the inertia switch. We have had many on this board, that went bad. They did everything you did. It turned out to be the inertia switch.

 

[David Ponder]

One other thing to check. Locate the "Theft" light on your dash, turn the key to "on" but do not try to start it. If the theft light goes out after a few seconds, it is OK. If not, then the anti theft system is disabling the vehicle, and I think it does this by removing power to the fuel pump. (L1/ Scott, Is this correct?)

 

[Todd Z]

I hate To go OLD school, But remove the intake hose and spray for 1 second brake cleaner or carb cleaner passed the Throttle plate... Re connect quickly and Start the truck..... IF IT does not start you DON'T have a fuel issue...... IF IT does, then you do have a fuel issue



ALSO as said with the inertia switches,,,,,, Some times its locked and looks good BUT THE CONNECTOR is melted inside....



I hate to do this But some times its the only way..



Todd Z

 

[scott degroot]

by Dave ,4/28/2011 13:52 MT



One other thing to check. Locate the "Theft" light on your dash, turn the key to "on" but do not try to start it. If the theft light goes out after a few seconds, it is OK. If not, then the anti theft system is disabling the vehicle, and I think it does this by removing power to the fuel pump. (L1/ Scott, Is this correct?)

There are a few other things that happen also but you basically have it correct. Alot of times when we see issues with the PATS we have a start/stall condition but not always

 

[Gary Hart]

Problem I just encountered right now and fixed was the air-venting tube that goes between valve-cover area and connects with a metal tube in-between over to the air-intake boot. It's a hot day here and after finishing my business at my destination, she wouldn't start. This happened to me a lil while ago too.



what happened was I went to check the air-filter to be sure it wasn't perhaps clogged-up... after snapping it back down I noticed this gaping hole of a tube pointing at me! When I went to push it back in... you could tell it wouldn't seal-out air from the outside from getting sucked-in at this juncture... so I went back into Harbor Freight and bought some Zip-Ties and tied-off this air connection so there would be no leakage and just 2 start attempts later BadaBing! I was back on the road. I too thought my fuel pump must be having issues. I'm willing to bet this is happening to a lot of owners. I'm shocked there wouldn't be at least a hose-clamp on this area??