Full synthetic oil

["Risky Bizness"]

Our 2008 Limited ST has 119k on it. I am considering going to full synthetic Motorcraft oil. The truck has always had synthetic blend, in it since day one.

But with the number of miles on it, was wondering if it would be a help, or if it would even matter. Oil is changed every 5k. It is a 4.0 engine.

Opinions??

Thanx

 

[EddieS'04]

IMO,, If you have run MC syn-blend, for this many miles. I would stay with it. MC syn-blend is good oil. My Mom's 4.6L 2001 merc, has almost 150K 0n it with MC syn blend. Runs good and motor is smooth and quiet.

 

["Risky Bizness"]

I had a 2010 F150 with a 5.4. Cam phasers went out. The truck had always had the syn-blend in it, and the engine was pristine.

Was just looking at it maybe being "slicker". Guess, if it ain'y broke, don't try to fix it. Will just leave it alone.

Thanx, all for your input.

 

[Phil Frady]

If you’re not burning oil or leaking oil then you should be fine to switch to full synthetic.

 

[Ed Fenwick]

Again, if it is not using any oil, either is good oil but stay away from high mileage oils. I put it in mine once and that was the only time that it used any between changes. 159K so far.
Ed

 

[Mark Heisser]

My 2001 at 100k I changed to full synthetic changed ot every 10k sold it at 195k and didn't burn any at all

 

[Dmiranda1269]

Our 2008 Limited ST has 119k on it. I am considering going to full synthetic Motorcraft oil. The truck has always had synthetic blend, in it since day one.

But with the number of miles on it, was wondering if it would be a help, or if it would even matter. Oil is changed every 5k. It is a 4.0 engine.

Opinions??

Thanx

Go on YouTube and watch videos of the difference between them. Wow

 

[JC2008SportTrac]

Not sure what Dmiranda means about that, but I use full synthetic in everything I own. It's a small increase over the non-synthetic, and definitely has served me well. Going from non-to full synthetic won't HURT your moving parts. It's just a question if you want to pay the small increase in price. The idea, I guess, is that you'll get more life out of the moving parts. I think you will. But if you're not keeping it for the long-haul, it doesn't matter. But, yes, I use synthetic in everything. I also do a 6K oil change versus 3-5K of other oils. YMMV.

 

[Dmiranda1269]

I have 3 vehicles and change the oil every 4 months, the motorcraft oil filters are under $5.00 at Walmart, and I get the Quaker State oil full synthetic delivered to my door from Amazon for $19.00 with subscribe and save, no one should ever use price as the excuse unless you are going to dealer for their $90.00 oil change

 

[Todd Z]

I would.... cost is nothing if you buy the oil online.... the 4.0 NEEDS full synthetic to last....

 

[bruno2021]

I would.... cost is nothing if you buy the oil online.... the 4.0 NEEDS full synthetic to last....

So my 2002 4.0 SOHC..gonna do my 1st oil change since purchase. Has 160kkk on it. Full Syn..any suggestions?

 

[DILLARD000]

So my 2002 4.0 SOHC..gonna do my 1st oil change since purchase. Has 160kkk on it. Full Syn..any suggestions?

Definitely FullSyn, consider 0w30\0w20 for Wisconsin winters, a K&N "EasyOff" Filter, & a Fumoto DrainValve.
Click here for more info.
Also consider dropping the OilPan, inspecting for TimingGuide brokens & cleaning OilPump SuctionScreen.
Click here for more info.

 

[Harold Knutzak]

I would.... cost is nothing if you buy the oil online.... the 4.0 NEEDS full synthetic to last....

Todd,
Thanks for all your input on "all things Sport Trac". I've been following this thread for input on switching my 2002 4.0 w/ 160k miles to synthetic. Questions ; are they all the same; different filters; what weight would be best for south central Florida???
Thanx in advance, Harry

 

[Phil Frady]

5

Todd,
Thanks for all your input on "all things Sport Trac". I've been following this thread for input on switching my 2002 4.0 w/ 160k miles to synthetic. Questions ; are they all the same; different filters; what weight would be best for south central Florida???
Thanx in advance, Harry

Get a good brand or stick with Motorcraft. 5W-30 is what the book calls for. You could go with 0W-30, I wouldn’t go any different.

 

[JC2008SportTrac]

LOL, I'm wondering what oil to go with on my '06 4.0 4X4 V-6. It's not showing any signs of using oil or anything. However, it's 'using' coolant. I'm having to add a half-gallon of coolant for every 2K miles of driving. I'm TRYING to get it sealed-up, but not sure why it's using some coolant. I can only assume it's going by the heads, but not enough to make it a big fix needed.

 

[DILLARD000]

LOL, I'm wondering what oil to go with on my '06 4.0 4X4 V-6. It's not showing any signs of using oil or anything. However, it's 'using' coolant. I'm having to add a half-gallon of coolant for every 2K miles of driving. I'm TRYING to get it sealed-up, but not sure why it's using some coolant. I can only assume it's going by the heads, but not enough to make it a big fix needed.

Won't matter what oil you use, if you let that coolant leak go much longer & burn up the engine.
The V6~4.0L~SOHC is notorious for leaking coolant from the junk Plastic ThermoStatHousing
that Ford designed+used & similar versions that are sold by most parts stores.
Have you thoroughly inspected around the ThermoStatHousing & under the IntakeManifold for a coolant leak?
Often the plastic Housing only leaks when the engine gets hot, back into the "cave" under the Intake,
then the Coolant evaporates on the hot engine block before leaking onto the ground.
If you've never replaced the original 15+ year old ThermoStatHousing, that would be a prime suspect.
Strongly recommend replacing plastic Housing with an Aluminum version.

If the ThermoStatHousing is NOT leaking, there are several other suspects:
~ junk Plastic HeaterControlValve
~ junk Plastic HeaterHoseTee
~ junk PlasticTanked Radiator
~ WaterPump
~ Hoses+Clamps
~ HeaterCore

If you've not replaced any\all of the above original 15+ year old Coolant system components,
they are all suspect & you should consider a Coolant system makeover with all new parts.

More info at
https://2001fordexplorersporttrac.fandom.com/Engine_Coolant_ThermoStathttps://2001fordexplorersporttrac.fandom.com/Engine_Coolant_HeaterValvehttps://2001fordexplorersporttrac.fandom.com/Engine_Coolant_Radiator+Caphttps://2001fordexplorersporttrac.fandom.com/Engine_Coolant_Fan+Clutch+Pumphttps://2001fordexplorersporttrac.fandom.com/Engine_Coolant

 

[WinoOutWest]

Where do we vote for most helpful response award?

 

[Todd Z]

I agree use the weight on the cap... I prefer Valvoline or Amsoil.. but any name brand will work.

As for JC loosing coolant, LOOK in 2 places..... use a flash light and look behind the thermostat housing under the intake... if its wet its the thermostat housing leaking and burning off on the top of the motor. OR remove the overflow bottle and look on top of the radiator for cracking and leaks... IF you have a stock rad cap ( 20PSI) Gen 2 only change it to a 16 lb gen 1 16lb cap ASAP !!!