Help !!Battery Drain With Key Off

[Erv Metoxen]

Hi,

My battery is draining while the key is off. Had the battery load tested twice "Good". Only 6 months old. Already have replaced the starter, the bearings were bad (didn`t help much)

It never goes dead. But either overnight or 2-3 hours after turning off, it is very hard to start.

It always starts but, cranks slowly at first then builds speed just enough to start.

Sometimes not on the first attempt of 5-10 seconds of cranking, so I turn key off and crank again and it will start. Almost as though on the first cranking, the alternater charged the battery just enough to start. The voltage meter reads 12.6 to 12.9 volts just after shutting off.

After 1 hour it says 12.2 to 12.3 volts any longer than this it does drop to 12.0.



Coastie advised me to;



Disconnect hot wire to alternater overnight; To see if the diode inside is letting power bleed through. "Still started the same as described above.



Disconnect battery overnight; Started as described above.

Checked all fuses; All Good



Checked voltage at fuses with key off;

pictures below show the results-

The first picture is the inside dash. The second is the engine compartment, the 0s signify a fuse is there but no voltage read.

[Broken External Image]:[Broken External Image]::unsure:

Anyone who has time to go out and check their fuse readings and post back would be greatly appreciated. I hope the pictures are ledgible.



Thanks To Everone.

Erv 01 ST[Broken External Image]:

 

[Jeff C]

So you disconnected the battery overnight and it did this? Is it possible it's the fuel pump losing pressure when it sits overnight? Try turning the key to on for 15sec, turn it off, and then crank it as usual. Just a thought.

 

[Rodger Tellefson]

Also, check the alternator as well. What mods do you have?

 

[Erv Metoxen]

Jeff, fuel pump is fine, it cranks slow at first and builds speed just fast enough to start.



Roger (& Georgia), The alternater is charging fine, at idle the voltage meter reads 14.+ volts.

thanks for chiming in

Erv 01 ST.

Sorry the second picture didn`t take. Tried again [Broken External Image]:

 

[Les]

Check the chassis ground...

 

[Todd Z]

can you hydro test each cell????



Sounds like there is 1 week cell in the battery.... IF it goes no lower then 12 over nigh, you just got a week battery...



Todd Z

 

[Erv Metoxen]

Todd, Would it show good on a load test with one weak cell? I had the place where I purchased it load test it twice.

The battery is maintenance free, I didn`t want to pry the top off and damage or show that I tried to pry it off if I have to try and return it, either way I don`t have a hydro tester.

 

[Todd Z]

erv, If it is weak, No it may not....

do the caps come off??? have the place do the hydro test....

IF they refuse, ask for a new one...



ALSO did you calibrate the voltage meter you using to read the voltage with???



Todd Z

 

[Erv Metoxen]

Todd,

All I have is elcheepo from the local department store, figured it was fairly accurate.

Just went out and started the truck, and the meter said 13.2 v before I started it.

But it still cranked slowly. But started.



Less, When I installed the new starter the ground attached to it. Is there another

chassis ground?

Thanks for Everyones input!!!!

Hopefully we get this figured out before I have to take it to a shop....

Erv 01 ST

 

[Todd Z]

Erv, did you clean the battery terminals and the cable ends before installing the new battery ??



I always clean the new battery's terminals too..



Todd Z

 

[Erv Metoxen]

Todd,

Yes, I cleaned the terminal ends and the cable clamps before installing.

also the terminal ends of the starter leads before installing new starter.

I am going to take the battery up to the store tomorrow again and suggest

the hydro test. and or another load test.

Is there a way to find a closed or faulty relay switch??

From earlier,

Is there a actual chassis ground other than the one attached to the starter

mount bolt??

Erv 01 ST

 

[EddieS'04]

Erv, not saying this is it. I had a plymouth 25 years ago doing simular. Every thing checked good. It turned out to a faulty main positive cable to from the battery to the starter. After I changed it. I striped it and the copper was corroded most of the way, even some broken strands. It was undetectable from the outside. I hope thats not your problem. with the cost of copper, that will be exspensive...good luck..

 

[Wes Davis]

You disconnected the battery overnight and the next day it still started slow??? I am guessing your battery is bad even though it tests ok. Other possibilities would be your cables and connections or a bad starter. I don't think you have a drain in your system discharging your battery. I also see you are in cold weather which will make any battery problems much worse. Put a charger on the battery and get it to full capacity then try to start the truck. I bet it will still start slow meaning a dead cell in the battery or bad wires and connections between the battery, starter and ground. I see you put on a new starter. Was this happening prior to the new starter or after?

 

[shawn stonbraker 2]

Fast Eddie makes a good point. If everything you have done thus far, hasn't helped, the wires can very easily be the culprit. Being that your vehicle is an '01 is also another good reason to suspect corroded wires. If they are, the voltage isn't goint to travel as well to the starter. May want to look at them, especially if the place says the battery is good.

 

[Les]

Try a different battery and see if you get the same symptoms...

 

[Mike M 4]

A test for the battery cables is to measure voltage from the positive post on the battery to the junction point near or at the fuse box. Try cranking the trac over, there should not be a voltage drop across that cable. My guess is your battery has a week cell.