Help with '86 Explorer -- Won't Turn Off

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Nelson Atwell

Nelson Atwell

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Fiancee's youngest daughter has an '86 Explorer. She just called to say she can't get it to turn off. She turned the ignition and removed the key, but it is still running. Any clue what is up, and how I can safely turn it off? :unsure:
 
More than likely it is the ignition switch rod or lever. The lever is what moves up and down when you turn the key on and off and it is attached to the rod the goes to the ignition switch itself that is bolted to the lower part of the column.



When the lever (or slide) breaks you can normally start the vehicle as it pushes against the rod that slides the ignition switch. When you go to turn it off the slide comes back like it should but since it is broke it does not move the rod. So for all practical purposes you've done nothing when you turn it off as the rod does not move.



If it is the lever/slide that is repaired by opening the upper area of the column.

To turn it off you can unbolt the switch that is bolted to the lower part of the column and side the switch by hand. Or... simply unplug the switch and it should also turn off.



I'll try to find a picture to help with my explaination...
 
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I am not sure if this is the safest way to turn it off and it could be the worst but i wouldnt think so. If that happened to me I would just disconnect the battery. Not sure what to do positive or negative first though.
 
First off, you wont get shocked. The system is only 12 volts.



Second, disconecting the battery will not kill the engine. The Battery is only used for starting the engine. Once the engine is stared, the alternator will supply the electric required to keep the engine running. A car will run n a dead batter, but it will not run on a dead battery and a dead alternator.



As for killing the engine, there are a few things you can do. The only problem with shutting the engine off, is that the electrical system will remain on because the igniion will still be in the on position.

Tripping the fuel cut-off switch is the easiest way to kill it. It will die within 3 or 4 seconds once the line pressure bleeds down.



Once the engine is off, disconnect the negative battery cable to shut off the electronics.



Either take it somewhere to get it fixed, or go to a junkyard and buy another ignition switch, if that is the problem. A multimeter and a wiring scematic can help you diagnose the problem.





Tom



BTW, do you realize that her Explorer is 19 years old? How many problems has she had with it? How many miles are on it? Just wondering. It is really rare to see a 20 year old "junk" American car on the road. Here in Ohio, they are all over the place since the Japanese cars of the 80's tend to migrate back into the dirt as iron ore. (Rust to death) I am just wondering.
 
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This happened to me on my 95 Ranger; some rod or pin broke in the ignition after I removed the key and the engine kept running. Triple-A guy disconnected the coil-pack and then towed my truck to a shop.
 
I just got back. I am not positive of the year, but it is either first or second generation. Perhaps it is a 1996. The dashboard is identical to ours, but the front grill is not.



I pulled the ignition and starter fuses with no effect. I also disconnected the battery, which of course did nothing. He are the more specific symptoms:



When I turn the key into the "off" position, the radio goes off as normal, along with the accessories. If I turn the key as if I were trying to start it, the stater grinds (since the engine is already running). When the ignition is in the off position, it seems the engine runs a little faster (perhaps because all the load is off of the engine from the accessories). When I turn the ignition backwards to the accessories only position, everything comes back on and the engine continues to run.



She is taking the truck to AutoZone now to let a real mechanic look at it. I read that I could kill it by pulling one of the main fuses under the hood, but I would also probably electrocute myself trying to do it with the engine on (DC current has a lot of Amps, right?) :blink:.
 
The only place you have a chance of messing yourself off is pulling the coil wire. Some coils put out as much as 80,000 volts, some systems are as high as 100,000 volts. The Explorer's system is about 45,000 volts. I know a guy that pulled the coil wire off a 1991 Escort GT. He now wears a pacemaker.



Pulling the Fuel pump relay will kill the engine. That would be your best bet.



Sounds like it is a 1995 or 1996.





Tom
 
Tom is right. I had an old Chrysler with an upgraded Accel performance racing coil amongst many other things. Well one day the key didn't want to shut it off. Being 17 at the time and thinking I was a big dog mechanic, I said, "Hey guys, watch I can shut it off. I'll just kill the ignition coil." :blink: Well I pulled the coil wire off and it felt like a thousand hammers hitting my entire arm and chest like a thousand times a second. After about 3 seconds I was finally able to let go, jumped back, and sat down for about 5 minutes. That packed a wallop, I'm just glad I didn't get hurt. So guys, play it safe and don't touch a running coil. I had done it before too but that was the last time.
 
I have been hit with 110V AC more then a few times. One time, I was locked on a job when the job was rolled onto a power cord. In my hand was a MT Inspection yoke. When I pushed the button, I became the route for the cord that was broken. I had burns on my hand and I had trouble walking for about an hour after it happened. I am very lucky I wasn't killed. The only thing I was able to do to get myself freed from that was to lean out of the fan I was inspecting and fall to the ground. It was about a 4' fall. Once my feet left the metal, I was OK.



The fall didn't hurt. I was too numb from the electric to feel anything.





Tom
 

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