high rpm in neutral

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steve moore

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Hi all, been awhile! 2009 St adrenaline with 95000 kms. I have owned since new and had been flawless up to this point. My problem is when it is cold out , below freezing, I will start st drive for a while,(makes no diff how far) stop and put st into P (park) . The truck will then rev out all on its own,right up to the limiter. sometimes if I pump the gas peddle it will come out of it, sometimes not. If I put back into Drive with brake on, it will settle down back to idle, put into neutral or park, back go the rpm to the limiter. I can turn the ignition off and restart, most times it will be ok after that. Had to dealer, did it to them, they put a new throttle body on. (650$) Still have same problem! anyone have any ideas?? Tech at dealer said no codes came up when it reved out on him. He put a new throttle body on and we left it there for a couple days . no more issues. Pick it up ,take home and as soon as I put into Park, the Rpms shoot right up to limiter. I am stumped! and a lil frusterated. Hope someone can help

steve
 
Two new throttle bodies with no resolution. Maybe l1tech or someone else can confirm - isn't this engine a throttle-by-wire control? Something is sending WOT electrical signal to the throttle body. Has tech looked at gas pedal position sensor, wiring and connectors? This has to be an electrical malfunction in my mind.
 
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Yes it is a throttle by wire system. As far as the tech looking at the wiring,not sure,never stated that he did. I would agree with you, sounds like an electrical issue. I hate throwing parts and big $ at something and the problem not being resolved.

:banghead:
 
Agreed. I don't believe you're getting good treatment from dealership service dept. It may be that they don't have the right tech assigned to your car, or they need some help from Ford. I'd have a chat with the dealership service manager and ask him what his plan is to fix your car; if he doesn't have one then escalate to the dealership owner and ask him the same question. Maybe they'll even give you a loaner while they fix your car.
 
:soap:



Pretty much anybody with two-wrench skills can throw parts at a car until it's fixed, but that is not why one goes to a dealer.



I do not pay for on-the-job-training, and that is what you got for $650.00 - somebody guessing at your expense - twice.



I would have a conversation with the service manager and ask to see the test results of the original TB. If they don't have that, you might ask why. Ideally, they'd reinstall the original TB and refund the cost to you as an experiment that provided information, but not a fix. It's your call, but at a minimum, if you're okay keeping a new TB (and I would not) , I'd get the labor refunded and pay only for that which fixed the problem.
 
I say the dealer owes you $650. Also another tech that can troubleshoot.

A few bolts and a harness plug. I can do the same for less than $650.

The TB is only going to react to the ECU signal. So If idle reacts right in gear but not in nuetral. I wouldnt even think TB.
 
Have looked into a vacuum leak? It probably doesn't have one buy the way you explain things are happening. But, I have seen a lot weirder stuff before. I suggest checking for one as soon as possible...
 
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