Loss of power

Ford SportTrac Forum

Help Support Ford SportTrac Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Josh mcleod

Active Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
163
Reaction score
2
Location
winnipeg, MB
Maybe you guys can help me narrow this down. When I try moderate to high acceleration (around 3000 rpm), the engine starts to surge like I'm pumping the accelerator and basically stops accelerating when this happens. I now have to accelerate like a civilized driver. I can reach any speed as long as I'm really light with my foot. While in park it revs perfect, just not under load. A few other things to mention, this started to happen when it got really cold for a week -35c (-31f), I have an xcal tuner and have tried different tunes with different fuel grades, I have 85000 km, original plugs and wires.

I'm thinking it may be as simple as a fuel filter but not sure. It's cold here and don't have a warm place to work on my trac. Will a pluged fuel filter still allow the engine to rev perfect in park? Thanks
 
Yes. Because it takes far less fuel to power an unloaded engine than one pushing 4500 pounds up a hill.



Canadiantrucker502,



Definitely change the fuel filter (every 30,000 miles; ~48,000 km) - it is due.



The replacement interval for plugs is 100,000 miles (~160,000 km). I'd change the fuel filter first and then, if the problem remains, pursue other remedies.



Regardless, if you do nothing else, you must add that rice can muffler. Not only will it have that authentic lawnmower sound, but it will be faster, too.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I guess I'll pull the trigger on that fuel filter and see how that goes. Thanks.



As for the rice can muffler. No thanks, ill just stick to drilling holes in my muffler for performance. Aka "speed holes". Lol
 
I guess I'll pull the trigger on that fuel filter and see how that goes. Thanks.



As for the rice can muffler. No thanks, ill just stick to drilling holes in my muffler for performance. Aka "speed holes". Lol
 
If you don't have a place to work, take it to a shop and have the fuel filter replaced. It's a quick job and shouldn't cost that much. Keep in mind that we drivers have absolutely no control of the cleanliness of the fuel coming out of the station pumps. There are standard industry procedures in place to keep fuel clean as it makes its way from refiner to the station, but your car's fuel filter is the last point of protection for modern engines that require clean fuel to run properly.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sounds like dirty injectors to me. Run some injector cleaner through a few tanks. Treat it to Top Tier (toptier.com) fuels only. Don't waste money on higher octane fuel; that's not the problem unless your engine is retarding timing due to knock. You should be getting blinking lights or trouble codes for serious knock. Since you didn't mention any, then it shouldn't be your air temp or mass flow sensors, either. Also, make sure the air cleaner is clean and dry.



These fixes are quick and cheap. Once you determine it's getting plenty of clear air and fuel, then fire is the next culprit - things like coils and plugs.
 
I was surprised when I asked a dealer the labor cost to replace the fuel filter (first time for this vehicle) - more than twice the cost of the filter. I bought the filter and the fuel line coupling tool and did it myself in less than 30 minutes. This one is too easy.
 
Ok so I replaced the fuel filter. Was easy except for the gas on my chest. Clear gas came out one side and black fuel came out the other, wow. It runs slightly better because it was obliviously needed but it hasn't solved my issue. I'm thinking injectors.
 
Run injector cleaner through a tank or two. I'd tackle inspection and cleaning of intake system first. New air filter and clean out air box. Get a spray can of carb cleaner and clean up your throttle body. Replace PCV valve. Pull a spark plug or two for a look at their condition; if you don't like what you see replace plugs.
 
After running some good injector cleaner through your fuel tank a time or two (I like Chevron), you might as well plan to replace the plugs and wires soon. Use Motorcraft plugs and some good wires (probably Taylor if you want the best). After nine years and 85,000 miles, not doubt you will get better performance from new plugs and wires. Be sure to put a clean air filter in too.



A little maintenance can go a long way to improving performance, reliability, and efficiency.
 

Latest posts

Top