My new to me sport trac

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Joined
Dec 26, 2022
Messages
116
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60
Location
TN
What engine do you have?
V6 engine
What year is your Sport Trac?
2001
What Generation is your Sport Trac?
1st Gen Owner
20221102_155657.jpg
Hello all! This is my new to me 2001 sport trac xlt2. I have always liked these little trucks. I do have some ideas and plans. Planning to do a budget prerunner style build.
 
Welcome to the Herd; lots of friendly knowledgable folk in these forums.
 
So far i have replaced the thermostat housing with an aluminum one from amazon, so far so good. Also replaced both timing chain tensioners, as well as driver side valve cover gasket, pcv valve and both elbows. Doing the pass. valve cover, intake gaskets, plugs, wires, and coil tomorrow when it warms up. Dont feel like working outside when its 36 and about 2 inches of snow.i dont know who worked on this vehicle before, but they had a habit of losing bolts...smh
 
Since it was up in the mid 50s today, i got the passenger side valve cover removed....filthy, and looks to be factory gasket. Should there be any looseness to the timing chain? Hasnt been cranked in a couple weeks and i replaced both tensioners earlier that day
 
Since it was up in the mid 50s today, i got the passenger side valve cover removed....filthy, and looks to be factory gasket. Should there be any looseness to the timing chain? Hasnt been cranked in a couple weeks and i replaced both tensioners earlier that day
May need to run SeaFoam or equivalent to clean up oil sludge.
Personally I spray a litle CarbCleaner in the OilFill+OilDipTube before I change Oil+Filter,
then run engine 5~10min, then change Oil+Filter; believe this helps breakup sludge & flush it out.
Several YT vids show+discuss that RightRear Chain+Guide; inspect that while ValveCover is off, looking for brokens.
Click here for more info on these TimingTensioners+Guides, with links to more vids.
 
Got everything done. All new vc and intake gaskets, new pcv valve and elbows (job 2 engine), new plugs, wires, and coil. Running pretty good, has an occasional hiccup at idle. Found the rubber line going down to the evap purge valve is rotten. Going to pick up some efi fuel hose tomorow as well as a ujoint for my old plow truck.(93 f250). Feels good to finally knock out some projects on my to do list!
 
I will say my hands took a beating replacing the #3 plug and wire....kinda wish the plugs were on top like on the 4.6 and the 5.4. Having never had a 4.0 before, i was actually expecting it to be just a v6 version of the 5.4. Same thing chevy did back in the day when they made the 4.3, just a 350 minus 2 cylinders. Yeah cylinder 3 definately made me realize i need to go to harbor freight and pick up some flexhead rathchets...lol
 
Recommend deleting the 5/16" PCV Coolant Warming Loop plus the associated PCVValve OxBowCollar & Tees+Hoses off the Heater Loop. Its a useless RubeGoldbergInvention & potential source of Coolant leaks.
 
Recommend deleting the 5/16" PCV Coolant Warming Loop plus the associated PCVValve OxBowCollar & Tees+Hoses off the Heater Loop. Its a useless RubeGoldbergInvention & potential source of Coolant leaks.
That thought did cross my mind, and if it ever starts to leak i will do that. Theres some kinda thing in the heater hose with a cap on it, maybe to help bleed air, i dont know. Havent had any issue with it air entrapment. Tbh, kinda reminds me of that fitting that used to come in thos prestone engine flush kits they used to have at the parts store.
 
Well, went to town to get a section of fuel hose to replace the 3/8" hose going from intake to the canister purge valve. Got 16 miles from home, and it shut off. Tow truck operstor looked it over and said the lower oil cooler line on the radiator is leaking badly where a previous owner repaired it. He thinks the oil got low enough(i checked before i left, it was fine) that the engine shut off. Do these have a low oil level sensor? Just before the it quit, it started bucking some, and then would come right back to life. After i sat there for a minute, it cranked right back up.
 
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After it idled for about a minute, it would shut off again. So i hooked my scantool up, and im getting 8 codes in the ford oem enhanced continuous memory menu.
P0325, P0351, P0352, P0353, P1000, P1401, PO171, P0174. Anyone have any ideas what could be? Im much better with heavy diesel engines than passenger vehicles.
 
TransCooler ATF Loop runs thru left RadiatorTank via Tubing then changes to 10mmHydraHose under right bottom edge of Radiator to TransCooler behind Grille. See diagram & rebuild pic below.
ATF Tubing~Hose transition under Radiator is a notorious leaker, needs good HydraHose & double WormClamps. No low level Switches\Cutoffs for ATF or OIL or Coolant... ; you run 'em dry, you burn 'em up.
2001.Ford_Tran.Radi.PartsList+TorqSpecs.GIF
2001.Ford_Tran.Radi______Ford.5L2z-7a095-a_000a_BeingRebuilt.GIF
 
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That thought did cross my mind, and if it ever starts to leak i will do that. Theres some kinda thing in the heater hose with a cap on it, maybe to help bleed air, i dont know. Havent had any issue with it air entrapment. Tbh, kinda reminds me of that fitting that used to come in thos prestone engine flush kits they used to have at the parts store.
Sounds like an aftermarket Coolant Flush+AirPurge connection by a previous owner; your option to keep\delete.
 
After it idled for about a minute, it would shut off again. So i hooked my scantool up, and im getting 8 codes in the ford oem enhanced continuous memory menu.
P0325, P0351, P0352, P0353, P1000, P1401, PO171, P0174. Anyone have any ideas what could be? Im much better with heavy diesel engines than passenger vehicles.
Click here for more info on OBD2 Scanners & link to full list of TroubleCodes.

p1000 = Test Results In Progress\Pending
Ignore This.

p0171 = Cylinder1+2+3 RghtBank1 Too Lean
p0174 = Cylinder4+5+6 LeftBank2 Too Lean
Commonly due to Vac leak at PCV Elbows\Tubes\Hoses or Throttle\IACValve\EGR\IntakeManifold Seals.

p0325 = KnockSensor1 CircMalFunc
KnockSensor (glorified microphon), mounted in EnginV, 2WireHarnessPlug on right side of IntakeManifoldThroat.
Commonly due to damaged wiring\connection; repair\replace.

p0351 = IgnitionCoilA CircMalFunc
p0352 = IgnitionCoilB CircMalFunc
p0353 = IgnitionCoilC CircMalFunc
Bad IgnitionCoilPack or bad wiring\connection.
Click here for more info on CoilPack+Wiring+Plugs.

p1401 = DiffPresFeedbackElement CircHi
DPFE is a NotoriousFailureItem due to melted riser hoses or sensor body.
Replace with new HiTempHoses & MotorCraft sensor, not cheap asian copy.
Clean ExhaustRiserTubes with CarbThrottleSpray.
Click here for more info on DPFESensor+EGRValve.

Hope this helps.
 
Again recommend basic vehicle specs in your signature:
Year+Model \ Engin \ Trans \ TCase \ Diffs \ ...
for easier+quicker questions+answers.
 
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Again recommend basic vehicle specs in your signature:
Year+Model \ Engin \ Trans \ TCase \ Diffs \ ...
for easier+quicker questions+answers.
How do i do that?
 
I think i might have figured it out, the signature part. My signature isnt showing up on my end. I did update it like you said, and it said changes saved, but im not seeing it on my end.
 
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TransCooler ATF Loop runs thru left RadiatorTank via Tubing then changes to 10mmHydraHose under right bottom edge of Radiator to TransCooler behind Grille. See diagram & rebuild pic below.
ATF Tubing~Hose transition under Radiator is a notorious leaker, needs good HydraHose & double WormClamps. No low level Switches\Cutoffs for ATF or OIL or Coolant... ; you run 'em dry, you burn 'em up.
View attachment 3945View attachment 3946
On your diagram of trans cooler, it the lower hose connection to radiator. It looks like a barb fitting, with rubber hose and a single worm gear clamp. Im about to go check on coil wiring and will snap a pic of it.
 
On your diagram of trans cooler, it the lower hose connection to radiator. It looks like a barb fitting, with rubber hose and a single worm gear clamp. Im about to go check on coil wiring and will snap a pic of it.
 

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