New Rotor Suggestion

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Fudged Undies

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Well, after months of a vibrating steering wheel, I got fed up and decided to replace the rotors. Was going to go with the EBC slotted but decided against spending the extra cash since I think much of the warping comes from tire rotation via the tire shop and the mechanics showing the wheels who's the man when using the impact wrench. In removing the lugnuts to replace the rotors, I'm pretty sure this is accurate.



Anyhow, just as a heads up, <a href="http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=28542562&prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=62384505"target=top>Napa has OEM quality rotors</a> for roughly $55 a piece(this is the main point of this post). This is $40+ cheaper than any place else I found. I did the swap this past weekend and I had forgotten how nice it is to stop without trembling. Went back to the PFC Carbon-Metallics since they dissipate heat much better than the ceramics. I also noticed that despite the ceramics having about 50% material there were a couple of cracks in each pad. Don't know if this is normal but in replacing pads in the past I have never noticed this. Not to mention that the ceramics created alot of chatter. This may have been due to not turning the rotors, but the first pfc's didn't do this and I didn't turn the rotors then either.



Anyhow, Napa has relatively inexpensive rotors. They don't have the inner bearing seals, which you may or may not need depending on how abusive you are in removing the old ones but autozone does have them for $5.39 a piece.
 
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Ed,

All very good info. Thanks for this informative post. I don't know anyone who is not interested in saving money!:D



...Rich
 
I got the "better" rotors at NAPA for my wife's car, about $70 apiece. Even the counter guy said "Gee, these are a lot heavier than the other ones." She warped them too in about six months. Cut 'em once and they need it again already. In the rotors' defense, it's very hilly where we live and my wife steadfastly refuses to downshift out of OD going downhill because "It might hurt the transmission." :rolleyes:

I'm thinking of adding dryer ducting like NASCAR uses to cool the brakes. :lol:



I figure I'm down to two choices:

1. Spend the really big money for Powerslots and hope they last. I doubt anyone here has the special machine needed to cut slotted or drilled rotors if she warps them though.

2. Buy whatever cheap Chinese crap AutoZone has because it looks like I'm going to buy a set a year no matter what.



Anyhow, thanks for the info. I've always liked NAPA brake parts. Their Ceramix pads are a killer deal, great feel and little dust. :cool:
 
JohnnyO, I noticed the weight thing as well. Those Napa rotors weigh a good amount more than the stockers. Forgot to mention that. Also they made in Canada. Coincidentally the cheap autozone ones are going for about $90 according to autozone.com.



Thanks for the comments guys.
 
JohnnyO,



I would be willing to bed a good set of pads like the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads will eliminate the problems you have with the Trac's brakes.



Try them, I guarentee you will love the pads.





Tom
 
ASE Certified Mechanic Advice:

Use impact wrench to remove lugnuts/wheels;

Perform necessary service to brakes, suspension components or wheels/tires;

Clean wheel/drum/rotor backing and mating surfaces with a wire brush

and/or chemical cleaner to remove any rust or contaminates;

Reinstall wheel/tire assembly referring to the manufactures torque spec table

to prevent wheel wobble, rotor or drum distortion/wobble or pedal pulsation.

Never reinstall wheel/tire assembly to any vehicle using an air-type impact

wrench.

This is "Gospel" in my mechanical book!!!

 
FWIW, a leading cause of front brake behavior as you state comes from the rear brakes not working properly. Next is the other components such as calipers sticking. Of course, cheap rotors won't last as long as OEM or perfomance pieces.
 
Caymen said:
JohnnyO,I would be willing to bed a good set of pads like the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads will eliminate the problems you have with the Trac's brakes.

Try them, I guarentee you will love the pads.



The problem is not with the Trac, it's with my wife's Taurus wagon. I had a FWD Lincoln Continental once, same chassis as a Taurus really, and it chewed through brakes and rotors like crazy too even though I did not put a lot of miles on it and drove it very carefully. I currently have NAPA Ceramix pads and the good NAPA rotors on the front of the Taurus.

I see the cryo-treated Powerslots for it are $138 each :blink: at Tire Rack.

 
tracnblack,

I agree. Using a torque wrench to install the lugnuts has been the proper technique for many years. The problem is that mechanics and shops who know better will use impact wrenches simply because they are faster, and like most things today, time is money!



When I go to a tire shop to have the tires balanced or rotated, I always watch how they install the wheels to insure that they don't use an impact wrench. I caught a guy using an impact wrench on my Honda, and immediately told the manager, who made him loosen alla the lugnuts and retighten them to the proper specs with a torque wrench.



...Rich
 
My father had a 1993 Thunderbird. In a few thousand miles, he would end up with warped rotors. He doesn't drive his cars hard. After it was replaced under warranty 5 times, he pulled the pads off the 'Bird and installed PF Carbon Metallic pads.



Over 50,000 miles later, he replaced the pads. Not because he had to, he just wanted to check everything over and while it was apart, he changed the pads at the same time.



The rotors were not warped one bit. He had the rotors truned and the guy asked dad why is he turning the rotors. They were not warped one bit.



Honestly, I think the PF pads will fix your wife's problem.





Tom
 

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