OT: F150 fogging up

[2]

Looking for any pointers here.

05 Supercew, 80,000 km's (50 K miles)



This has happened twice now once last Sunday and the next time I drove my truck, today. Both times around -20 C (-4 F) I warm the truck up while I remove all the snow, I then get in and start driving after about 5 minutes I get the smell of antifreeze and the truck inside instantly and completely fogs up. Today it was so bad I had to pull over and sit there till it cleared. Then about 10 minutes later same thing, a whiff of antifeeze and the whole truck instantly fogged up. Could my heater core already be shot at this low of a mileage?

 

[Tom Schindler]

Heater Core has a leak.





Tom

 

[James B 3]

sounds to me like the heater core is leaking.

james

 

[2]

AHHH, any idea what that costs to get replaced. And no, I can't do it myself, there is a foot of snow on the ground and it is -4 F. Great, only 50 k miles and the heater core is done. I really had hope for Ford quality and reliability with this truck after my lemon 03 ST, now this crap?

 

[Todd Z]

Some of the F series trucks, and E series vans are a 20 min installation, some are 8+ hours...



Call around by you, see what the local shops say...



Todd Z

 

[2]

Yup Todd you are right, 8 hours labour. I am looking at 1000 bucks for this.

 

[Tom Schindler]

How many places have you called?





Tom

 

[Kevin Palmer]

For now, remove the two hoses and put them together with a coupler, (pipe, tubing, whatever). This will stop the leak and stop the fog issue.



That said, you will freeze your ...... off.



At my shop we charge 60 per hour. That will give you a clue to the cost.



Buy the core yourself and you will save some money as opposed to the installer buying it.

 

[Tom Schindler]

If it were me, I would run some Moroso Ceramic Engine sealer and be done with it.





Tom

 

[Gavin Allan]

heater core is rusted out on an '05?



Why so soon?

 

[Todd Z]

Gavin, Many factors can destroy a heater core.... My 75 mustang the hose was too tight that the hose was vibrating so much that it broke the connector, took 2 cores before it was discovered that was the issue...



Could be a bad radiator cap, Low coolant, Engine running to hot....



Todd Z

 

[2]

If it were me, I would run some Moroso Ceramic Engine sealer and be done with it.

Tom

Tom, I was just thinking of that while I was out, I will try some Prestone Stop Leak or something. I have exactly 1 year left on this lease, so if that works I would be a happy camper.



Coastie- at these temperatures I can't bypass the heater core, I won't be able to see without the warm air. It is an intermittent problem, like I said, after about 5 minutes of driving it does it and then ten minutes later or so it does it again. I think it just leaks when the pressure gets built up.



I called three places, all said 8 hours plus parts. That being said I would probably be stuck with the dealer because I don't know any good independent places around here at all and they usually treat me right. The only independent (4 different ones) places that I know that people took their vehicles to all had negative experiences.

 

[Fred]

Another thing that can damage the heater core is if someone is constantly tugging on and/or moving the heater hoses, near the point where they leave the engine compartment.

 

[Josh Langel]

Buy a Toyota and get rid of the F150.

 

[2]

Buy a Toyota and get rid of the F150

I am two years into a three year lease, I would like to finish this one off so I am not stuck with Ford again the next time. At least I will have a choice of vehicles.

 

[Tom Schindler]

Olaf,



Heater core failures are not as common these days as they used to be.



There is a reason the F-150 is still the truck GM, Dodge, Nissan, and NOW Toyota tries to emulate.



Any other problems with your truck besides the heater core?





Tom

 

[2]

Tom



Parking brake cable was pinched from the factory - replaced under warranty

Knocking from passenger side of engine - Cam Phaser replaced under warranty

Loud noises from Auto climate control - pivot points on flaps greased under warranty

On my third battery in two years. The first two were Motorcraft which each didn't last a year. I am now trying an Excide battery, I will see how it does.



Now I am out of warranty and the big one hits. Much better than my ST was though. At least the entire drivetrain isn't falling apart.



I didn't say I am for sure not buying Ford, but I am checking out the competition at the end of this lease and I will see what happens.

 

[Todd Z]

Olaf, since it is cold out you do not need the pressure in the cooling system to raise the boiling point of the coolant....



You can get a 7 lb rad cap and try that, OR you can cut the center gasket on your cap to relieve any of the pressure into the overflow....



I had to do this on my 75 mustangs original motor with a blown head gasket, But I drove it for almost a year with the rad cap cut before I rebuilt the motor...



Throw in some of the stop leak and try the rad cap idea..



Todd Z

 

[Kevin Palmer]

If you try thee sealant and it does what you need.



I would suggest draining the radiator once the core is sealed.



If not, the stop leak keeps trying to do its job. Sooo, if your radiator has some partially plugged tubes, the stop leak WILL seal them for good. Thus, you will lose some cooling abilty.

 

[2]

Thanks everyone I will try the stop-leak stuff first. I only have to get the stop-leak trick to work for one more year and she will be gone. I think it is still a small hole because it is an intermittent problem, not continuous yet. It will be due for a coolant flush in another 20K km's (12K miles) anyway.