Pre/Post timing chain issues of early Gen1

[rwbenner]

Hey folks, general question for the group. I have a Gen1, and I’m looking for another Gen1 as I’m familiar with working on them….but I understand there was a timing chain issue of some sort with the 2001 Sport Tracs that was fixed by 2002, or perhaps during the late model 2001 tracs? Anyway, is there an easy way to tell the difference in the engines of the 2001 to know if the timing chain issue was redesigned? I do find a lot of 2001s for sale, but I don’t want to inherit this problem. I think I read somewhere once that the earlier version had a pretzel shaped intake manifold, but not sure if this had anything to do with the redesigning the time in chain. Just looking for a definitive answer. Thanks all, Merry Christmas! Randy

 

[DILLARD000]

Early 2001 SportTracJob1 models have the IntakeManifold shaped like a pretzel; these had many 1st year issues & should be avoìded like plauge. Later 2001 Job2 & 2002 & 2003 models improved with each year; 2003 is a "sweet spot" as they have DiscBrakes all around & that was last year before notorious HEC controls, so 2003 is my preference if now buying a used Gen1 SportTrac. Around 2002, the left+right OilPressurized TimingTensioners & the front LeafSpring TimingTensioner were redesigned\improved & the unnecessary BalanceShaft was deleted in the V6~4.0L~SOHC CologneFactory engine assemblies. Motorcraft OilPressurized TimingTensioners have a manufacture date stamped on the outer end; only way to confirm LeafSpring Tensioner upgrade is to remove FrontTimingCover; only way to confirm BalanceShaft present or absent is to drop OilPan.

After acquiring any year\model 1997~2012 (Explorer, LandRover, Mustang, Ranger, SportTrac...)
with the Ford V6~4.0L~SOHC engine & 5r55e Tranny & 1354 TransferCase & ...
as soon as possible its best to
* renew the two OilPressurized TimingTensioners then every 67kMiles\8yrs
* swap JunkPlastic TStatHousing to Aluminum version
* swap JunkPlastic 2WayBall HeaterValve if equipped to traditional Metal 2WayPlug version
* swap JunkPlasticTanked 2Row Radiator to AllAluminum 3\4Row version
* delete 3/16" PCV Warming Coolant Loop if equipped
* service CoolingSystem with fresh 50/50 + new TStat + new RadCap then every 33kMiles\4Years
* service Engine with fresh 5w30.FullSyn\5w20.FullSyn + new OilFilter then every 5kMiles\6Mths & new Plugs+Wires+OxSensors then every 100kMiles\12yrs
* service Tranny with PanDrop + new Filter + new Gasket + fresh MerconV + BandAdjust. then every 33kMiles\4Years
* service TCase with fresh MerconLV then every 33kMiles\4Years,
* service Difs with fresh GearOil then every 33kMiles\4Years
* ...

Hope this helps.

 

[curtis james]

I agree with the gen 1 choice, i got my 04 new and i got a 07 new, did not like any thing about the 07 other then color,,i ordered both and still have the 04 and had the 07 for a year plus and could not get the trans and engine to perform like i wanted, i got a 4wd with v8, trans could never stay in a gear nor the performance with a v8, my 04 had more useable power,they both got intake exhaust tuners..i have a few 04s and 05s, the owner of 04 i have also was original and it had zero issues with drivetrain till 280k.i did a ton of research before getting my 04, from 01 i have loved the style. dillards info is spot on with getting bugs out. my 04 has had nothing done to it, its still on original serpentine belt, i might change the thermo housing but no issues with it. it only has 50k but its old like me but in better shape.

 

[rwbenner]

Good for u Curtis. Although I love my high mileage ‘02, I realize that everything has a shelf life…..and I’ve been in the hunt the last year or so for a low-ish mileage 02-05 sport trac. I don’t mind having to do some mechanical work, in fact, I rather enjoy it (I’m not a mechanic by trade, just what I picked up from my old man who was), but I can’t do body work. So I need a solid body and frame, and when living in NE Ohio, a good body and frame on anything older than 10 years is dang near impossible. Lol

 

[Fordtruckfan89]

The balance shaft was used after 03, I know mine has it. I'd also suggest the PCV bypass where you use a breather instead of sucking it through the intake

 

[DILLARD000]

The balance shaft was used after 03, I know mine has it. I'd also suggest the PCV bypass where you use a breather instead of sucking it through the intake

Rumor is it took a year or more after 2002 to clear the factory stocks of 4.0L engine assemblies with BalanceShafts & they were randomly installed in both 4WD & 2WD models, so yep.

 

[Ed Fenwick]

rw, I have a 2002 that I bought with 109K miles. Right away it started ticking on cold start. Eventually, it became a LOUD clatter. I spent $4500. having the timing chains, guides, and some smaller items replaced about 140K miles. Worked great for a couple of months then the clatter started again. The mechanic offered no warranty and blamed it on the lifters. My bad for not checking on the warranty. 'can't afford another engine so I prime the oil system in the mornings. Interesting to note that if I drive 6 or 7 miles there is no need to prime the system the next day! So I say don't count on the 2002s having the timing chain issue cured.
hope you had a Merry Christmass God Bless Ed

 

[DILLARD000]

Use 0w20 fullsyn in cold climates/weather to help get oil circulating quicker during cold starts.

 

[rwbenner]

To all, quick question about timing chain tensioners. I've had my '02 ST since 179k miles. It now has 316k miles. I've been diligent on changing oil and such, but not once have I swapped out the timing chain tensioners - nor do I have any idea if it was ever done prior to me buying it back in 2014. I've been reading about this issue with the tensioners SO MUCH on this forum, and I'm starting to get a little neurotic about mine.

I don't have any unusual amount of rattle at start up (its worse when its cold naturally - no rattle if the engine has been recently driven), but I'd rather change them on my terms before it comes unglued and more damage is done. I've read that you have to pull the engine if you want to change the actual timing chains as well...and that is not anything I want to get into. But if changing the timing chain tensioners is something the average shade-tree mechanic can do from the top side of the engine - and if its something that will buy me some more time - I guess it could be a weekend of wrench spinnin' and beer drinkin' while listening to '80's music in my garage. The body and frame are getting sketchy, but I need this vehicle to get me through one more year.....

Given the age of the vehicle, any sense if I'm going to run into snapped off bolts and such if I attempt to change my tensioners? Also, anyone have a link to a parts site that would include the parts needed for such a feat?

Any videos about swapping these is appreciated also.

Thanks all, be cool, be safe, and keep it classy!

-Randy (neurotic in Cleveland, Ohio)

 

[DILLARD000]

...02 ST ...316k miles ...diligent on changing oil
...not once have I swapped out the timing chain tensioners ...a little neurotic about mine.
...don't have any unusual amount of rattle at start ...worse when its cold ...no rattle if the engine has been recently driven
...rather change them on my terms before it comes unglued
...read that you have to pull the engine if you want to change the actual timing chains ...not anything I want to get into
...if changing the timing chain tensioners is something the average shade-tree mechanic can do from the top
...could be a weekend of wrench spinnin' and beer drinkin ...need this vehicle to get me through one more year.....
...snapped off bolts and such if I attempt to change my tensioners?
...link to a parts site that would include the parts needed for such a feat? Any videos...

To get 300kMiles+, you've obviously done good with routine Oil+Filter changes.
Never a guarantee on breaking bolts & such; could happen working on any thing new or old.
To change the 2 OilPressurized TimingTensioners, you do NOT need to pull the engine;
likely a 2~3hr job for a first timer, including changing the Oil+Filter afterward.
Your 2002 should have same ThrottleBody+IntakeManifold arrangement as my late year 2001 Job2;
best off to remove ThrottleBody & IntakeManifold & possibly one of the TempSensors,
to get reasonable access to the LeftFront Tensioner. RightRear Tensioner is got at thru Right WheelWell.
Click here for details on changing these Tensioners; plus part number search links & video links.

 

[curtis james]

wow, tough choice,, congrats on the miles.. i have been watching some videos of the task and the rear looks to be the difficult one, i would be worried about the bolts and all that has to be removed like you mentioned,,most people talk about the clatter it makes before going bad and if you do not hear it i would keep the maintenance up and listen for it. i have seen the simplest jobs turn into long nightmares. i have a trac i got for a spare and it is in nice shape with 250k and i think it jumped timing and after researching i will pull the engine to work on it.

 

[curtis james]

 

[Steve Brothers]

Like Dillard says, the right rear one is easy to get at if you Jack up the truck and remove the right front tire. Support truck on Jack stand and remove the wheel well splash guard (if you have one). You can then see the chain tensioner and (and spark plugs!) I use several long extensions and a breaker bar (or large socket wrench) to remove it as it is often hard to loosen. This tensioner has a shallow head, so be careful to have the 27 mm socket fully engaged. When you install the new one, use Motorcraft brand only (7U3Z6K254A) and new gasket (XU2Z6M252AA), making sure the gasket is seated correctly before final tightening. If you are not careful, the gasket can get tweaked and damaged, and oil will leak. Torque to 32 ft-lbs with new gasket (or about twice that if you are trying to reuse an old gasket). Use a six point standard depth 27 mm socket on the right lower tensioner.

The top left tensioner is more involved, as you have to remove other engine parts to get to it, but it can be done with care. Just allow more time and replace throttle body and intake manifold gaskets with new ones to prevent vacuum leaks if you remove these parts.

 

[Larry Holmes]

To all, quick question about timing chain tensioners. I've had my '02 ST since 179k miles. It now has 316k miles. I've been diligent on changing oil and such, but not once have I swapped out the timing chain tensioners - nor do I have any idea if it was ever done prior to me buying it back in 2014. I've been reading about this issue with the tensioners SO MUCH on this forum, and I'm starting to get a little neurotic about mine.

I don't have any unusual amount of rattle at start up (its worse when its cold naturally - no rattle if the engine has been recently driven), but I'd rather change them on my terms before it comes unglued and more damage is done. I've read that you have to pull the engine if you want to change the actual timing chains as well...and that is not anything I want to get into. But if changing the timing chain tensioners is something the average shade-tree mechanic can do from the top side of the engine - and if its something that will buy me some more time - I guess it could be a weekend of wrench spinnin' and beer drinkin' while listening to '80's music in my garage. The body and frame are getting sketchy, but I need this vehicle to get me through one more year.....

Given the age of the vehicle, any sense if I'm going to run into snapped off bolts and such if I attempt to change my tensioners? Also, anyone have a link to a parts site that would include the parts needed for such a feat?

Any videos about swapping these is appreciated also.

Thanks all, be cool, be safe, and keep it classy!

-Randy (neurotic in Cleveland, Ohio)

QuirkParts.com had the OEM parts including the metal washers which are a must. Removing the top one requires removing the plastic thermostat housing which I replaced with a metal one from RockAuto.com as an afterthought when I found the plastic one leaked. Removing the lower one required removing the fender skirt which was also fairly simple with a plastic fastener puller and new plastic fasteners. I used a breaker bar and a short cheater pipe to loosen and installed with the proper torque spec which I don’t recall now. Last time they were replaced by a mechanic he didn’t put the washer on the top tensioner which I discovered caused about half a quart of oil to ooze out each 6 months.

 

[rwbenner]

Thank you all for your intel and experience. Maybe I’ll also drop the pan and see if I’ve got some of the broken plastic chain guides that I’ve read about and then make the decision then of changing the chain guides in the top side. My biggest fear is loosing the timing chain while driving and when the valves get out of synch, they get slapped by the pistons and the motor is scrap. I’ve had two timing chains let go while actively driving (albeit both of them the were Pontiac 2.2 four banger at around 215k) and I wound up having to swap the motors cause no compression on 2 of the cylinders). But if swapping the timing chain tensioners and +/- the chain guides will help to prevent the jump or skip, maybe I’ll get some piece of mine. But I do like the suggestion of waiting until I start to hear start up chain chatter to pull the trigger on swapping things. But again, my fear is losing a timing chain while driving, or even at jumping out of synch.

 

[curtis james]

i only mentioned the listening for chatter as the miles are higher then most engines can go and the location with rusted bolts ya mentioned, when i lived in cleveland in early 90s they salted roads and working on cars back then was tasking. but i like the jamming to the 80s music, that is what i do. either way good luck and keep us posted on progress..

 

[SportTracMoneyPit]

Good luck with it. The timing chains x2 equal double the headaches. I honestly hate these motors. I’m on my 3rd. OEM lasted to 157k. First remanufactured one lasted less than 40k miles before a guide failed and broke a valve and tore up a piston. Too many moving parts in my opinion.

 

[swshawaii]

Sad part is the bottom half of the 4.0L SOHC is VERY stout. Too bad no aftermarket has developed plastic timing chain guides reinforced with metal. If it hasn't happened yet it likely never will.
https://sporttrac.org/threads/4-0l-sohc-metal-reinforced-timing-chain-guides-possible.122957/

 

[Doug Kaye]

But I do like the suggestion of waiting until I start to hear start up chain chatter to pull the trigger on swapping things.

that's what I'm doing ;-) at 162k so far..
Not sure if my tensioners were ever changed but previous 2 owners were both engineers, and one of them replaced the plastic thermostat housing with a nice alu one.. so I'm hopeful they did it.

Most every interaction with the nuts and bolts on mine involves pre-soaking with PB Blaster, propane torch, and breaker bars.. like you I'm reluctant to get in there until it's certain I need to..

A friend at work had a F150 with timing chain, apparently those are supposed to be checked/retensioned at 100k. The dealer didn't do it and the engine blew, horrifying.

Just got the dealer to do the timing belt on my wife's MDX. Hoping for another 90k, then we'll be at 250 000 miles and my wife will rebel and want a new car..

 

[JohnPenny Peluso]

This guy makes great videos.