Pre/Post timing chain issues of early Gen1

[Steve Brothers]

In these old trucks, it is good to worry about the “frozen nuts and bolts”, and use plenty of PB Blaster etc. My additional concern on the 2001 Gen 1 Job 1 engine that I have, is the plastic upper intake manifold- the one that looks like a pretzel. It attaches to the lower plastic intake manifold with eight glorified wood screws. The screws can tend to make new threads during each assembly process and eventually can strip out. I have two screws that are stripped at this point. I add a bit of hot melt glue to tighten up the threads. The risk here is a vacuum leak of course - so I always replace this gasket to give me a good fighting chance. The torque spec for these fasteners is in inch-pounds, so it is easy to over torque. I am sure that it would be very difficult to get a replacement lower intake manifold for this truck, but have not looked.

Ideal solution would be to install threaded metal inserts on the lower intake manifold. “Some day, Jennifer”. (BTTF movie reference).

 

[EricP]

Coming in late on this conversation.
I have an early model 2002. This is the first time I've heard of any possible timing chain tensioner issues. The Scheduled Maintenance Guide doesn't mention them at all, either to check or replace. It stops at 150,000 miles, which is where I am. Should I wait until I start having symptoms, or should I proactively have them replaced?

 

[curtis james]

My understanding is ford used a cheap part and by the time they became a major issue they changed suppliers and it would of not been a recall, or not mentioned in any manuals, i am still rocking the original part from my 04 i got new but only have 52k on her. i would listen and take note from the people on here as some real owners with incredible knowledge and even tho my thermostat housing has no issues i am replacing as soon as it gets nice out from feedback on here about the plastic housing.

 

[DILLARD000]

...late on this conversation.
...have an early model 2002
...first time I've heard of any possible timing chain tensioner issues
...Guide doesn't mention them...stops at 150,000 miles, which is where I am
...Should I wait until I start having symptoms, or should I proactively have them replaced?

OwnerManuals don't mention a lot of issues;
theyre written when vehicles are new for people who don't open Hoods or change their own FlatTires;
even if design\quality problems were known at that time, they generally don't openly admit to them.
It's your vehicle, so its your judgement call & money.
At 150kMiles, I would sure be changing them, along with swapping TStatHousing to Aluminum.
If any fluid (Diffs, TCase, Brakes, Steering, Coolant...) is original, now is the time, despite Ford claims of "LifeTimeFluids".
If 5r55e Trans never had a service (PanDrop + ValveBodyBoltRetorq + NewFilter + NewPanGasket + New5~7qtMerconV + BandAdjust), now is the time.
If Plugs+Wires+OxSensors+PCVValve+ Hoses+HeaterValve+Radiator+Belt+BeltTensioner+Fan+FanClutch
are original, now is the time.

 

[EricP]

OwnerManuals don't mention a lot of issues;
theyre written when vehicles are new for people who don't open Hoods or change their own FlatTires;
even if design\quality problems were known at that time, they generally don't openly admit to them.
It's your vehicle, so its your judgement call & money.
At 150kMiles, I would sure be changing them, along with swapping TStatHousing to Aluminum.
If any fluid (Diffs, TCase, Brakes, Steering, Coolant...) is original, now is the time, despite Ford claims of "LifeTimeFluids".
If 5r55e Trans never had a service (PanDrop + ValveBodyBoltRetorq + NewFilter + NewPanGasket + New5~7qtMerconV + BandAdjust), now is the time.
If Plugs+Wires+OxSensors+PCVValve+ Hoses+HeaterValve+Radiator+Belt+BeltTensioner+Fan+FanClutch
are original, now is the time.

Over the years, I've pretty much done all of that, however, timing chain tensioners were never on my radar screen, until now. Thanks to this discussion, they will be included in my upcoming 150k service.
Thanks!

 

[DILLARD000]

Your routine Oil+Filter changes are likely what has kept them working.
I've concluded these OilPresurized Tensioners get sludged up & crusty,
then stop keeping pressure on the Guides.

 

[Dmiranda1269]

My understanding is ford used a cheap part and by the time they became a major issue they changed suppliers and it would of not been a recall, or not mentioned in any manuals, i am still rocking the original part from my 04 i got new but only have 52k on her. i would listen and take note from the people on here as some real owners with incredible knowledge and even tho my thermostat housing has no issues i am replacing as soon as it gets nice out from feedback on here about the plastic housing.

My 2004 has 207000 miles on it now, and I knew the previous owner and they have never been done. Not a bit of noise but oil has never gone past 3500 miles between changes. Took valve covers off recently it looked like a 10000 mile engine

 

[EricP]

My 2004 has 207000 miles on it now, and I knew the previous owner and they have never been done. Not a bit of noise but oil has never gone past 3500 miles between changes. Took valve covers off recently it looked like a 10000 mile engine

I routinely change my oil with full synthetic 5W30 every 7000 miles. It's tempting to wait until I hear chain chatter before dealing with this, but I hate to roll the dice when the timing chain is involved.

 

[Dmiranda1269]

I routinely change my oil with full synthetic 5W30 every 7000 miles. It's tempting to wait until I hear chain chatter before dealing with this, but I hate to roll the dice when the timing chain is involved.

True, I just changed my valve cover gaskets, and might do these this summer. But this is only used in the winter and sits all spring and summer, mustang time.

 

[rwbenner]

So, I just found a BEAUTIFUL 2001 Trac locally that just cracked 110k on the odometer. Outside, inside, and underneath look fan-freakin-tastic. Place is asking a lot of money for it (which I will have to discuss with them), but it’s got the dang pretzel intake we all hear so much worry over. I know I would have to pull engine to replace all the timing chains and guides if it came to that, but if I swap the hydraulic tensioners now….will that buy me more life? Does that reduce the angst of the premature death rattle? Or are there other sinister concerns of the job1 engines that replacing hydraulic tensioners (and thermostat housing/radiator) could still bite me on the arse. While I’ve pulled and dropped engines before (back in the day), it’s just not in the cards anymore as I don’t have a cherry picker to hoist the engine. So I’m looking to do what I can to maximize mileage on the engine from under the hood.

Ultimately, I’m askin ya-all to peer into your crystal ball for your thoughts. Run and hide vs. stay and play?. lol.

Thx, RB

FYI….the carfax is just a bunch of yearly “pass emissions” testing with some scattered oil/tire changes. So no real help there.

 

[DILLARD000]

So, I just found a BEAUTIFUL 2001 Trac locally that just cracked 110k on the odometer. Outside, inside, and underneath look fan-freakin-tastic. Place is asking a lot of money for it (which I will have to discuss with them), but it’s got the dang pretzel intake we all hear so much worry over. I know I would have to pull engine to replace all the timing chains and guides if it came to that, but if I swap the hydraulic tensioners now….will that buy me more life? Does that reduce the angst of the premature death rattle? Or are there other sinister concerns of the job1 engines that replacing hydraulic tensioners (and thermostat housing/radiator) could still bite me on the arse. While I’ve pulled and dropped engines before (back in the day), it’s just not in the cards anymore as I don’t have a cherry picker to hoist the engine. So I’m looking to do what I can to maximize mileage on the engine from under the hood.

Ultimately, I’m askin ya-all to peer into your crystal ball for your thoughts. Run and hide vs. stay and play?. lol.

Thx, RB

FYI….the carfax is just a bunch of yearly “pass emissions” testing with some scattered oil/tire changes. So no real help there.

Would at least cut down any offer to their asking minus the cost of replacing engine and trans, say subtract $10-12k. Definitely a gamble. Previous owner selling for a reason.

 

[Todd Z]

That's the JOB 1 motor.... Way better motor... Id change the hydraulic tensioners, and maybe intake manifold gaskets, Injector Upper and 2 piece lower gaskets, along with t stat housing.,..... Seems like a good truck.

 

[rwbenner]

That's the JOB 1 motor.... Way better motor... Id change the hydraulic tensioners, and maybe intake manifold gaskets, Injector Upper and 2 piece lower gaskets, along with t stat housing.,..... Seems like a good truck.

I thought the job1 motor (pretzel intake) was the demon engine to avoid? My ‘02 I currently drive has the revised intake….

 

[EricP]

I thought the job1 motor (pretzel intake) was the demon engine to avoid? My ‘02 I currently drive has the revised intake….

I thought that too. Plus I think I saw that the engine had to be pulled to replace the rear tensioners; in this forum, I believe. Is that true?

 

[christopher shears]

I thought the job1 motor (pretzel intake) was the demon engine to avoid? My ‘02 I currently drive has the revised intake….

Todd is right according to my mechanic
Job 1 was a better motor
It has 3 holes for the hydraulic tensioners ....
New hydraulic tensioners are not going to give you more time... the chains are either good or bad look on YouTube changing tensioners rangers
No better

 

[christopher shears]

Todd is right according to my mechanic
Job 1 was a better motor
It has 3 holes for the hydraulic tensioners ....
New hydraulic tensioners are not going to give you more time... the chains are either good or bad look on YouTube changing tensioners rangers
No better

Don't know what your paying for s/t just bought a 2003. S/t zero zero options
Paid 3k rebuilt upper
Didn't want it but to good to pass up
No rust clutch fair
Paint weak
Interior clean
Seats weak got spares in garage from junkyard 2 years ago

 

[stunner67]

So, I just found a BEAUTIFUL 2001 Trac locally that just cracked 110k on the odometer. Outside, inside, and underneath look fan-freakin-tastic. Place is asking a lot of money for it (which I will have to discuss with them), but it’s got the dang pretzel intake we all hear so much worry over. I know I would have to pull engine to replace all the timing chains and guides if it came to that, but if I swap the hydraulic tensioners now….will that buy me more life? Does that reduce the angst of the premature death rattle? Or are there other sinister concerns of the job1 engines that replacing hydraulic tensioners (and thermostat housing/radiator) could still bite me on the arse. While I’ve pulled and dropped engines before (back in the day), it’s just not in the cards anymore as I don’t have a cherry picker to hoist the engine. So I’m looking to do what I can to maximize mileage on the engine from under the hood.

Ultimately, I’m askin ya-all to peer into your crystal ball for your thoughts. Run and hide vs. stay and play?. lol.

Thx, RB

FYI….the carfax is just a bunch of yearly “pass emissions” testing with some scattered oil/tire changes. So no real help there.

How much are they asking for it. My 03 only has 127k on it. I just pulled the motor and replaced all the timing components. They weren't broken, but I was getting a slight rattle at start up, so I just took it out and swapped them all. Also ultrasonic cleaned and tested the injectors and did a full tune up. It's practically a brand new truck now. 3" body lift, custom wrap, projector headlights, and all new 2-tone leather interior. I'll be listing it for sale soon at $7500. Being in Arizona, it has absolutely no rust

 

[swshawaii]

4.0L SOHC timing chains rarely fail. Plastic timing chain GUIDES break. Still scratching my head why an aftermarket parts company hasn't made metal reinforced timing chain guides. I messaged Cloyes, Melling, and even Dorman years ago and only heard crickets.

 

[stunner67]

4.0L SOHC timing chains rarely fail. Plastic timing chain GUIDES break. Still scratching my head why an aftermarket parts company hasn't made metal reinforced timing chain guides. I messaged Cloyes, Melling, and even Dorman (gulp) years ago and only heard crickets.

Because plastic is cheaper. Also, metal is noisier since you would have metal on metal which is not a good thing when it comes to chains

 

[swshawaii]

Same subject posted on EF in 2017. Similar threads on bottom of linked page.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forum...inforced-timing-chain-guides-possible.458231/