Project Parts - Best Brands

[kaderade]

Alright, I'm getting my list of items ready to order and I wanted to ask some questions about brands for parts I'm buying before I finalize. I'm replacing the thermostat housing (using the Simmonz one sensor to avoid future headaches), Motorad Ultrastat - thermostat (5248192), sway bar end links (Moog K700542), timing chain tensioners (Cloyes 95587 & 95586), Idler pulley (Gates 38001), Serpentine Belt (Continental 4060860, since everyone recommends the 0.5" shorter than Ford's recommended size for gen 1's), tensioner pulley (ACDELCO 38008), and belt tensioner (ACDelco 38137). I have done research on most of these parts extensively as far as what to get for my 2005 ST XLT, as you can see I am going the more expensive route with parts as this truck is my daily driver and it has 196k on it already. That being said, I just want to make sure that I'm ordering all the right components so I don't have to worry about returning parts for the wrong size. I feel confident in most of these for my research, except for the thermostat, which I've had trouble finding recommendations for; does anyone have experience with what thermostat to get/if this one I've chosen will fit? I do not trust size fitment metrics on parts websites. Also for this big a job, is there anything else I'm missing? I'm also thinking about doing a coolant flush since I'll be doing all this anyway, does anyone have experience doing it? Any do's/don'ts or tips you can give a beginner? Thanks.

 

[swshawaii]

Your parts list is well researched. Having ownership since 2009 I've had both good and bad experiences with a few of your selections.

1. Theromostat. Aftermarket is usually OK, but most have had the best results with the OE Motorcraft RT1167 (190*)

2. Stock front sway bar end links are notorious for failing. Newer design Moog K700542 are adequate replacements, but the poly bushings are not very durable. Kinda cheesy actually. If you are willing to go through the effort, cost, and time search my "Bulletproof End Links" thread.

3. Hydraulic tensioners. Pay the extra $$$ and buy OEM Ford or Motorcraft only. No debate here, this is a known fact and many early failures have been reported by ALL aftermarket tensioners. I'll give you an eBay link. Don't forget the gaskets if not included.

4. Idler pulley. Gates 38001 is fine and almost identical to the OEM Ford belt tensioner. I'll post side by side pics later.

5. I had recurring belt chirp after trying several different six rib brands including the 1/2 inch shorter Gates. Continental Elite 4060865 (formerly Goodyear Gatorback) silenced my belt noise for good. Can't recommend the Gatorback design enough, but don't get gouged by eBay sellers listing it for $89.99. Should be no more than $30-$40 shipped. If nothing available for a reasonable price be patient. If you're in a real pinch I have a brand new spare that I will probably never need. Also be aware some eBay sellers have misleading descriptions selling ribbed Micro V belts as Gatorback or Elite belts. I private messaged those sellers on eBay months ago, then eBay after no description changes were made, yet no corrective action has been taken by either.

6. Tensioner pulley. No preference here, but I prefer the stock pulley design. IMO, clean it up and replace the bearing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143547274354

 

[kaderade]

Just the feedback I was looking for, I'll make the adjustments accordingly. Thank you very much, this is very helpful!

 

[David Cook 3]

Swshawaii,
Just a question for clarification; Are the timing chain tensioners you are recommending the same that originally came in the motor, or have they been improved in some way? It seems that due to the high number of complaints about the originals breaking apart, a different tensioner would be preferred. Honest question, not trying to be a smart aleck.

 

[swshawaii]

Don't recall reports of OE Ford/Motorcraft hydraulic tensioners "breaking apart".
Maybe the rubber check valve shown in the video linked below?

There have been reports of improvements made with OE hydraulic tensioners. I'll search and post if I can find details.

Browse through this excellent sticky from my pal Donald on EF.
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/ford-timing-chain-tensioner-cutaway.490702/

 

[David Cook 3]

Thanks for the video. From it, I don't see any plastic parts that could break off, but I'm sure(as sure as a 65 year old non mechanic can be) that I have read where others here have found plastic parts that have broken off from what I thought were the tensioners, and then been found in the oil pan. Mine is an '05 xls with 127k, and I have owned since 79k, ten years so that shows how much I drive it. I change the oil every 5k, and the only trouble it has given me was the harmonic balancer, which I replaced myself. No leaks of any kind, and runs as smooth as a baby's butt.

 

[swshawaii]

@David Cook 3
The "plastic parts" found inside the oil pan you are referring to are the internal orange colored plastic guides used for the center primary, front left, and rear right timing chains designed to keep the chains taut. The function of the two externally mounted hydraulic tensioners is to keep the driver and passenger side chains tight prior to start up and also while the engine's running. I'll link some relevant threads from here and other forums for you to read when I have time to search for them later today.

 

[David Cook 3]

@David Cook 3
The "plastic parts" found inside the oil pan you are referring to are the internal orange colored plastic guides used for the center primary, front left, and rear right timing chains used to keep the chains taut. The function of the two externally mounted hydraulic tensioners is to keep the driver and passenger side chains tight prior to start up and also while the engine's running. I'll link some relevant threads from here and other forums for you to read when I have time to search for them later today.

Thanks for the clarification. Uneducated can be fixed, not so with senility. Whew!

 

[swshawaii]

@David Cook 3
There are countless threads regarding Ford's 4.0L SOHC timing chain guide issues. I quickly searched and found this older, but informative article. However there is one glaring mistake. The 4.0L SOHC IS an interference engine and pistons can collide with valves when plastic guides break. I've written them several times about making this correction with no response.
https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/exploring-service-needs-on-the-ford-4-0l-v6-engine/

 

[DILLARD000]

Example pic of orange plastic schrapnel from broken TimingGuides
in the OilPan off a V6~4.0L~SOHC Engine.

 

[Larry Holmes]

Your parts list is well researched. Having ownership since 2009 I've had both good and bad experiences with a few of your selections.

1. Theromostat. Aftermarket is usually OK, but most have had the best results with the OE Motorcraft RT1167 (190*)

2. Stock front sway bar end links are notorious for failing. New design Moog K700542 are adequate replacements, but the poly bushings are not very durable. Kinda cheesy actually. If you are willing to go through the effort, cost, and time search my "Bulletproof End Links" thread.

3. Hydraulic tensioners. Pay the extra $$$ and buy OEM Ford or Motorcraft only. No debate here, this is a known fact and many early failures have been reported by ALL aftermarket tensioners. I'll give you an eBay link. Don't forget the gaskets if not included.

4. Idler pulley. Gates 38001 is fine and almost identical to the OEM Ford belt tensioner. I'll post side by side pics later.

5. I had recurring belt chirp after trying several different six rib brands including the 1/2 inch shorter Gates. Continental Elite 4060865 (formerly Goodyear Gatorback) silenced my belt noise for good. Can't recommend the Gatorback design enough, but don't get gouged by eBay sellers listing it for $89.99. Should be no more than $30-$40 shipped. If nothing available for a reasonable price be patient. If you're in a real pinch I have a brand new spare that I will probably never need. Also be aware some eBay sellers have misleading descriptions selling ribbed Micro V belts as Gatorback or Elite belts. I private messaged those sellers on eBay months ago, then eBay after no description changes were made, yet no corrective action has been taken by either.

6. Tensioner pulley. No preference here, but I prefer the stock pulley design. IMO, clean it up and replace the bearing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143547274354

The gasket mentioned in item number 3 cannot be overemphasized. Even though the gasket is a thin metal shim washer, it makes up for a difference in tolerance from the machining of the tensioner body. Last time I replaced the tensioners myself but the mechanic who previously replaced them omitted the left one. The resulting leak allowed a small amount of oil to sit on top of the block until it dripped down and drove me crazy looking for the source. It averaged a half quart every 6 months. So maybe not critical but I think essential.

 

[swshawaii]

Ditto. The rubber coated metal gasket is almost always required to assure a good seal. Inside gasket diameter is also larger than the M22 x 1.5 tensioner so centering is very important. Made that mistake installing the upper and had a "gusher" when I started the engine. A thin coat of heavy grease applied to the washer will help keep it centered when tightening to the factory recommended 32 foot pounds.

 

[swshawaii]

Just to show how far south this "easy" job went for me.

My upper hydraulic tensioner is NEVER coming out again as long as I own this vehicle.
https://sporttrac.org/threads/front-timing-chain-hydraulic-tensioner-disaster-averted.122385/

 

[Larry Holmes]

Just to show how far south this "easy" job went for me.

My upper hydraulic tensioner is NEVER coming out again as long as I own this vehicle.
https://sporttrac.org/threads/front-timing-chain-hydraulic-tensioner-disaster-averted.122385/

Scary? Sorry to hear about your tribulation but I see why it's your last left-side tensioner replacement. I can add that even though the old tensioners I removed had over 75K miles on them they were still as strong as the new OEM tensioners in comparison. Using a bench vise and oil can I re-primed the old ones as I had done with the new ones and may re-use them in the future if it comes to that.