Vic Sorlie
Well-Known Member
Very informative pics, thanks. Maybe it'll help OP - I see his location is also in Northeast, so corrosion could certainly be the cause of his problem.
Rear doors completely stuck shut
- Thread starter Brian Armour
- Start date
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Igor Smetaniuk
Active Member
Yeah, when I saw he was located in MA I knew I was probably good with this assumption. When door latches fail, the owner can't get the door open and has a diarrhea attack when the Dealer gives them a quote to fix it. So, as usual, they figure that's OK because I can use the other side. Then that one goes bad a week later and if they don't have kids, they use it as a catch all. They get everything by tilting the seat forward for a while because they know soon they will be getting a new vehicle and sell the Trac with two non-working doors to Chogidog. :angry:
Brian Armour
Member
@ toptobottom
WOW, great pictures! Thank you!
I finally heard back from the owner I bought the ST from. It sounds like the power locks and door latches were separate issues. The PL went bad 3 years ago and the doors went bad 6 months and 1 month ago.
I was busy replacing a lot of other problems on the truck this weekend. control arms, shocks, filters, plugs (omfg). Still have the back ends to work on with brakes, shocks and an evap code so the doors and their very frustrating situation got bumped to the back burner.
So if i work a screw driver into that hole, while working the outer handle linkage arm on the latch, that may be the best, or only, way? I feel like I need to be plastic man to bend my arms to get into there. lol.
Seeing as how it looks like I'm replacing the latches, I should order them now so I have them to swap out in the chance I get the doors open.
Anyone have a good place to order from so I have them on hand?
WOW, great pictures! Thank you!
I finally heard back from the owner I bought the ST from. It sounds like the power locks and door latches were separate issues. The PL went bad 3 years ago and the doors went bad 6 months and 1 month ago.
I was busy replacing a lot of other problems on the truck this weekend. control arms, shocks, filters, plugs (omfg). Still have the back ends to work on with brakes, shocks and an evap code so the doors and their very frustrating situation got bumped to the back burner.
So if i work a screw driver into that hole, while working the outer handle linkage arm on the latch, that may be the best, or only, way? I feel like I need to be plastic man to bend my arms to get into there. lol.
Seeing as how it looks like I'm replacing the latches, I should order them now so I have them to swap out in the chance I get the doors open.
Anyone have a good place to order from so I have them on hand?
Vic Sorlie
Well-Known Member
Why not throw some business at one of this site's sponsors? Fast Parts Network has your part(s).
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- Feb 27, 2009
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- Location
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- What engine do you have?
- V6 engine
- What year is your Sport Trac?
- 2005
- What Generation is your Sport Trac?
- 1st Gen Owner
I replaced both front latches recently. Very dark and tight space but got them done. For some reason, every printed repair manual book instructs to drill the actuator rivets for removal. NOT necessary, slightly pry the bracket apart with a wide flat bladed stubby screwdriver or similar, and the actuator comes out easily. Also, be careful disconnecting the wire connector on the bottom of the actuator. I broke a retainer tab off one, and had to use a small hose clamp so it stayed on. Here's a pdf from the 2004 ST Ford Workshop Manual. Please copy ASAP if needed.
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Brian Armour
Member
@Vic - Thanks a lot for the direct link. I'm all ordered now.
@swshawaii - Thanks for the pdf instructions. Hopefully, coupled with toptobottoms pictures, I'll be able to free the latches when the new ones show up.
I'd be getting into the rear end tomorrow, but I think we're getting a pile of snow so it looks like the ST is going to have to wait a couple more days. The snow messed up the delivery of my new rims/tires so I'm double bummed out.
Ah well...
@swshawaii - Thanks for the pdf instructions. Hopefully, coupled with toptobottoms pictures, I'll be able to free the latches when the new ones show up.
I'd be getting into the rear end tomorrow, but I think we're getting a pile of snow so it looks like the ST is going to have to wait a couple more days. The snow messed up the delivery of my new rims/tires so I'm double bummed out.
Ah well...
Brian Armour
Member
It looks like I spoke too soon on that order.
I got an order confirmation email, then another asking for my approval on a change on my order.
The change being that the hinges went from $18.88 and $28.52 a piece to $75.35 and $70.60 a piece.
I'm not really thrilled with that type of bait n switch up-charging after a sale.
So site sponsor or not, I think I am canceling my order.
Unfortunate as I was excited to have them ordered.
I got an order confirmation email, then another asking for my approval on a change on my order.
The change being that the hinges went from $18.88 and $28.52 a piece to $75.35 and $70.60 a piece.
I'm not really thrilled with that type of bait n switch up-charging after a sale.
So site sponsor or not, I think I am canceling my order.
Unfortunate as I was excited to have them ordered.
Vic Sorlie
Well-Known Member
You ordered hinges? Thought we were talking about latches here. P.S. If you'll update your Member Profile your postings will show generation and motor of your Trac beside your name.
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Brian Armour
Member
@ Vic Lol, it's latches. The hinges on a door here were squeaking while I was typing that last message and I was thinking about oiling them. I didn't even realize I had typed the word hinges instead of latches.
Vic Sorlie
Well-Known Member
Sorry you got surprised on cost. A search of factory parts list shows $89.70 for door latches. I'd go to local dealership parts counter and see what they'll do. Your biggest challenge is getting the darn things to open, yes? If you haven't looked yet there are some YouTube videos on getting stuck doors open.
Igor Smetaniuk
Active Member
@ Chogidog
My part numbers were 6L5Z-7826412-B (right or passengers side) $49.92 and 65LZ-7826413-B (left or drivers side) $46.90 on my Invoice from a local NY Dealer back in 2012. The tax came to $6.30 for both.
I just Googled the 413-B and quickly found a price of $56.48 plus $13.95 shipping. IMO it doesn't pay to order parts because the shipping adds much more than sales tax would at your local Dealer.
Check to see if those are the same part #'s they were selling you.
As far as room to work in, it's been a while since I did the passenger rear (which was not frozen shut) and I can't remember but there may be a window track that has a single nut which you can remove to make a little more room for hand access. I know for that's the case on the front doors because I've replaced latches there twice before on each side.
My part numbers were 6L5Z-7826412-B (right or passengers side) $49.92 and 65LZ-7826413-B (left or drivers side) $46.90 on my Invoice from a local NY Dealer back in 2012. The tax came to $6.30 for both.
I just Googled the 413-B and quickly found a price of $56.48 plus $13.95 shipping. IMO it doesn't pay to order parts because the shipping adds much more than sales tax would at your local Dealer.
Check to see if those are the same part #'s they were selling you.
As far as room to work in, it's been a while since I did the passenger rear (which was not frozen shut) and I can't remember but there may be a window track that has a single nut which you can remove to make a little more room for hand access. I know for that's the case on the front doors because I've replaced latches there twice before on each side.
Brian Armour
Member
So I finally got one of the doors open.
It took half a can of PB Blaster and hours of working the latch to get parts moving.
I ended up taking a tiny screwdriver and going in the smaller hole that is furthest to the right in the bottom picture. When the door is closed, the large hole is full of the top of the door post and you can't get into it at all. The small hole has a little lip that can be pried on to disengage the jaws.
When I finally got it open I could see how rusted up the latch is. I had held onto a slight hope that maybe i could lube up and free the latch up back to working condition. But it's scrap now.
I finally found a scrap yard that has a couple ST's and I went and grabbed some latches and a couple other things off of this morning. I'd resisted getting a used set because I was afraid of the same thing happening later. But these look good and I'll soak them up before I install them.
My only setback now is that one of the plastic clips/keepers broke. The one for the inner handle onto the latch. I hope Ford can help me out there.
I can't wait to actually have rear doors lol.
Then I can deal w/ my eval codes and funky 4wd sounds. I just need some more warm weather to get back under it.
It took half a can of PB Blaster and hours of working the latch to get parts moving.
I ended up taking a tiny screwdriver and going in the smaller hole that is furthest to the right in the bottom picture. When the door is closed, the large hole is full of the top of the door post and you can't get into it at all. The small hole has a little lip that can be pried on to disengage the jaws.
When I finally got it open I could see how rusted up the latch is. I had held onto a slight hope that maybe i could lube up and free the latch up back to working condition. But it's scrap now.
I finally found a scrap yard that has a couple ST's and I went and grabbed some latches and a couple other things off of this morning. I'd resisted getting a used set because I was afraid of the same thing happening later. But these look good and I'll soak them up before I install them.
My only setback now is that one of the plastic clips/keepers broke. The one for the inner handle onto the latch. I hope Ford can help me out there.
I can't wait to actually have rear doors lol.
Then I can deal w/ my eval codes and funky 4wd sounds. I just need some more warm weather to get back under it.
Brian Armour
Member
So just to close this off, The doors are done.
The 2nd door I did the entire process in under an hour.
So much easier knowing what you're doing.
Popped the inner door panel, tiny screwdriver thru the correct hole and bingo, the door opened right up.
Ended up having to buy 1 from the local dealer as I broke one of the plastic clips on the hinge and you can't just buy that part.
Ah well, happy to haver back doors.
Now I need to find out why the PDL aren't working.
Thank you everyone for all the ideas and help, I appreciate it.
The 2nd door I did the entire process in under an hour.
So much easier knowing what you're doing.
Popped the inner door panel, tiny screwdriver thru the correct hole and bingo, the door opened right up.
Ended up having to buy 1 from the local dealer as I broke one of the plastic clips on the hinge and you can't just buy that part.
Ah well, happy to haver back doors.
Now I need to find out why the PDL aren't working.
Thank you everyone for all the ideas and help, I appreciate it.
Igor Smetaniuk
Active Member
@Chogidog
It's great to hear you got both doors working again. Sounds like you're 2nd door fix in 1 hour should be reported to 'Guiness Book of Records'. You are now a Certified Master latch technician.
All I've been doing is shoveling snow here in NY. Got 22" in one week from the 3 snowstorms. I stepped outside this morning in the sunny 10 degrees and saw my shadow which means I won't get to my door latch job for another 8 weeks.
I decided to add one more pic with your added input about using the smaller hole so that it might help some other unfortunate soul.
[Broken External Image]:
It's great to hear you got both doors working again. Sounds like you're 2nd door fix in 1 hour should be reported to 'Guiness Book of Records'. You are now a Certified Master latch technician.
All I've been doing is shoveling snow here in NY. Got 22" in one week from the 3 snowstorms. I stepped outside this morning in the sunny 10 degrees and saw my shadow which means I won't get to my door latch job for another 8 weeks.
I decided to add one more pic with your added input about using the smaller hole so that it might help some other unfortunate soul.
[Broken External Image]:
toptobottom,
Great Posts !!! Very helpful photos and explanations...Probably one of the most helpful posts i have seen here in a long time.
:supercool:
May I suggest you post your photos and instructions as a Member Project. We need more explicit help like that here, rather than the usual Wild-ass guesses.
:haveabeer:
...Rich
Great Posts !!! Very helpful photos and explanations...Probably one of the most helpful posts i have seen here in a long time.
:supercool:
May I suggest you post your photos and instructions as a Member Project. We need more explicit help like that here, rather than the usual Wild-ass guesses.
:haveabeer:
...Rich
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Brian Armour
Member
@toptobottom
Yeah, I couldn't believe how quick it went. I actually had more trouble getting the inner panel off than the latch lol.
I just got another 8" of snow last night, and I hear theres more coming in a couple days so I feel your snow pain. My rear axle needs some attention, but it's waiting until I don't have to use a sled to slide under with.
That's the hole I went in yes. When you get the flat blade of a small screwdriver in there, you feel for a tiny notch in there and that's the pry spot for the jaws. I didn't even have to hold the outer door latch to get it to open. It just pops open. I didn't have to lube it up either.
I was so excited when I got it open that i wasn't paying attention and the door swung closed on me lol. So the second time I made sure to close the latch jaws before I even got my hand out.
Another thing I noticed in taking my latches out and the ones at the junkyard is that the top screw on the inner side seems to almost always be the one to get rusted in a bit more. On 3 of the 5 doors I took apart, that screw was tough to get out. PB or WD40 it first, have a larger tip phillips to get it out with and it seems to do the trick.
Yeah, I couldn't believe how quick it went. I actually had more trouble getting the inner panel off than the latch lol.
I just got another 8" of snow last night, and I hear theres more coming in a couple days so I feel your snow pain. My rear axle needs some attention, but it's waiting until I don't have to use a sled to slide under with.
That's the hole I went in yes. When you get the flat blade of a small screwdriver in there, you feel for a tiny notch in there and that's the pry spot for the jaws. I didn't even have to hold the outer door latch to get it to open. It just pops open. I didn't have to lube it up either.
I was so excited when I got it open that i wasn't paying attention and the door swung closed on me lol. So the second time I made sure to close the latch jaws before I even got my hand out.
Another thing I noticed in taking my latches out and the ones at the junkyard is that the top screw on the inner side seems to almost always be the one to get rusted in a bit more. On 3 of the 5 doors I took apart, that screw was tough to get out. PB or WD40 it first, have a larger tip phillips to get it out with and it seems to do the trick.
Igor Smetaniuk
Active Member
Hey Rich, thanks for the compliment - much appreciated. I've learned some good fix-its from others and just trying to give my share back. I'll redo a thread and markup some new photos with the procedure/tips.
I was looking in the Projects section and the problem I'm having is where to put it. There should be a 'Body' section. I did find some similar related threads in the 'Interior' section so I guess I'll put it in there.
I was looking in the Projects section and the problem I'm having is where to put it. There should be a 'Body' section. I did find some similar related threads in the 'Interior' section so I guess I'll put it in there.
