Spark plug Torque

[Tom Schindler]

I am changing the plugs on our 2006 Mercury Mountaineer Premier V8 AWD today. I got the old ones out yesterday and waiting on the new ones to be delivered.



I decided on getting the Champion plugs due to their one piece design Hopefully it is not a mistake.



The old plugs had 95,000 miles on them. (I assume, since I got the vehicle used) The old plugs were cruddy, but they came right out.



What I did was I cracked a plug loose. I then sprayed PB blaster into the plug hole around the plug. I let it soak for about 5 minutes. I then tightened and then loosened the plug multiple times. As soon as it started getting tight to remove, I tightened the plug back up and then started removing it. All 8 came out within 20 minutes.



What torque should I use to tighten the plugs? I do not have a manual handy since I moved a few months ago and haven't finished unpacking.





Tom

 

[TRACket Paul]

Apparently you were luckier and more skilled than many others.

 

[Richard L]

Don't have the torque specs, but recommend that you use anti-seize when you install the new plugs....but I'm sure you already know about steel plugs in aluminum heads.



It sounds like Ford does not use anti-seize when they install the plugs at the factory...Probably saves them 10 cents per engine....With this class action lawsuit, I wonder if they really saved any money in the end....:smack: Of course the consumer will likely not get much money back....The lawyers get all the money.



....Rich

 

[swshawaii]

I've read 156 inch/lbs (13 ft/lbs) but that may be for the OEM two-piece plugs.

Strange that the TSB only states the expected REMOVAL torque at 33 ft/lbs.

 

[EddieS'04]

Hello Tom,

Long time no hear.

I thought that either motorcraft or autolite, later came out with a one peice plug as the champions.

In my experiance with different motors with aluminum heads. I have never seen a plug torque above 200 in/lbs.

I would say steve's info is right.

My Moms 2V 4.6 grand marquis. All I did was choke up on a 3/8 ratchet. Gave them a good wrist snug.

 

[Tom Schindler]

Found the specs. 25 Ft/Lbs. New plugs are in.



Set the gap on the Champions at .045" (range is .040" to .050").



Not sure if Motorcraft or Autolite has 1 piece plugs or not, but the Champions are the only ones that advertise a 1 piece design so I went with them. Not a fan of Champions though, but they have a 5 year warranty and access to the plugs is awesome.



I did coat the part of the plug that goes into the head (the area of issue with this design) with high temperature (2600 degree F) anti-seize. The High Temperature Nickel Anti Seize costs of money, but if it prevents future issues, it will be worth it.



If you decide this is something you want to tackle yourself, get the Anti Seize ahead of time since nobody stocks it. I lucked out and found some at a Ford dealer.



Back into hiding. Hope all is well with everyone. Maybe I will stop back in the next few months. Who knows.





Tom

 

[scott degroot]

We have started using an impact wrench to remove the old plugs out of the 3 valve Ford V8 engines. I know what everyone is going to say but before everyone starts flaming away it actually works. This idea actually came down from a Ford engineer but you obviously won't find it published anywhere...works like a charm. As far as the anti seize goes everyone is aware that it does not go on the plug threads, only a very light film on the portion that protrudes into the head and make sure that there is non on the bottom 3/16" of the plug. While we are on the subject of anti seize, personally I do not put anti seize on plug threads as it can break down the ground contact between the plug and the cylinder head and cause misfires but if you must use anti seize on plug threads do so very sparingly.

 

[Tom Schindler]

L1tech,



The dynamics of an impact wrench is something I can not fully understand. Where a breaker bar will twist a bolt head off, an impact wrench will remove the bolt and rarely twist off the head.



Never thought to use an impact, but I can see where it would work.



Mine came loose pretty quickly. A little PB blaster in the plug hole, let it soak, a few loosen then tighten over and over and the plugs came out.



Way easier than I expected it to.





Tom

 

[EddieS'04]

personally I do not put anti seize on plug threads as it can break down the ground contact between the plug and the cylinder head and cause misfires but if you must use anti seize on plug threads do so very sparingly.

I use high temp copper anti-seize on anything that needs it. Make for good connections. It is actualy sold for electrical use.



Regular antisieze is just oily grafite.