TRAC still not fixed... HELP!?

[Adam Yee]

So I had the problem with my trac sputtering and stalling in reverse this past week... I took it in after checking the IAC, DPFE, returned the program back to stock with the XCAL2, reinstalled my stock intake, adjusted the TPS sensor, check the vacuum elbow and PCV valve..



The mechanic that looked at my truck called me and said it was the IAC motor that was causing the problem.. needless to say, they replaced it and it didn't fix the problem..



They now said to me they don't know what is wrong with it and to take it to the dealer...



Is this my last resort? is there nothing else I can try to do before giving into the $120 per hour labour rate they charge??!



One thing i did notice what that if I put in into 4x4 it doesn't stall.. the rpms just drop a lot..



ANYONE HAVE ANY OTHER IDEAS ON WHAT COULD BE WRONG?

 

[Andy Szkutak]

Adam,

check to see how you are on freon with the ac system...if the freon is low, the ac compressor cycles on and off faster than normal, and will cause a rough idle problem..



That is what happened to mine



Good luck

Andy

 

[WXMotorSports DecalsPartsAccs]

Your dealer charges 120.00 an hour?

 

[Adam Yee]

$120/hr canadian.. yes. It is only $20 dollars more per hour than the shop I took it too.. unfortunately cheap mechanics in Alberta don't exist anymore ..



Andy, would this freon issue only happen with the truck in reverse? I also had my heater/ac turned off and it still had the same problem...

 

[Andy Szkutak]

Adam, I don't know about just in reverse, but i remember mine only did it in certain gears.. in other gears it would idle fine, but then in others it would stall/sputter out. In order for the ac compressor to be off, the defroster must also be off. You have to have it on the vents only, or just off. so if it was off and still did it, i dont think it would be the compressor. I remember someone else having a similar problem like this and it turned out to be the tcc solenoid in the transmission, or something liek that... someone else will hopefully chime in on this...

good luck



Andy

 

[Adam Yee]

I found a TSB on older ford trucks.. pre-96 F350's with this problem.. I don't know if it would apply to the sport trac but this is what it read:



"On vehicles with transmission build dates prior to 9/20/95, the overdrive cancel lamp may be illuminating and Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1728 present and/or engine stall when reverse and/or manual low is selected may occur on some vehicles. This could be caused by the torque converter hub contacting the cover which may generate metallic and/or friction material particles causing control valves to stick and/or damage the fluid pump. Damage to the fluid pump may cause the converter clutch to engage intermittently."



The mechanic that looked at my trac this past weekend said it wasn't a transmission or torque converter problem.. atleast that is what he thought..



I haven't had my plugs changed or a coolant flush done yet.. that is the last 2 things I have not done in regular maintenance.. and I am at 133000 kms. Haven't had a tune up either.. I know.. i should've by now.. but I haven't been driving my trac and have been working out of town a lot lately.



Is it in anyway possible that these 3 things I have yet to do caused my problem? :wacko:

 

[Richard L]

Adam,

If the shop replaced your IAC and that did not cure the problem, I hope you did not pay them, or you at least got your money back??? If they called you an said the problem was the IAC and that did not resolve the problem, you do not have to pay for the new IAC or the labor to remove and it.



That assumes it was their diagnosis and not you who just told them to replace the IAC because you theough that was the problem.



I suspect you are having a similar problem that XST is having and that is one of the controls for your EGR system is malfunctioning and allowing Exhaust gas into the intake air when the engine is idling. The EGR and the DPFE sensor can be fine and you can still be getting exhaust gas into the intake stream because an electrical, vacuum, or temperature controlled switch is malfunctioning and allowing the EGR at idle.



You need to take it someplace that has a good diagnostic mechanic who can pinpoint the exact part that is malfunctioning. Also, tell them up front that you want the system diagnosed and properly repaired, and that you will not pay for any new parts or labor that does not fix the problem!



...Rich

 

[EddieS'04]

Adam...I would look into what Richard is saying about the EGR not seating. Also I would go ahead and change plugs and wires myself, at that KM. The dealer is liable to suggest it. Dont pay their price for a tune up.

 

[Chris Kulbaba]

Adam...



Just wait a day or 2. I am going to Ford today to pickup a couple EGR system parts. Ifigure this is going to be cheaper than them doing it for me wit hthe labour.



I will see if this helps me out, if it does its definately something you can try to fix yours.

 

[Richard L]

If you take your vehicle in because it's running rough or idling bad, don't ever let them suggest a tune-up. If you agree to a tune-up you will spend well over $100 and that will not likely fix the problem.



You should never tell, or suggest what the shop should do to fix a problem. If you do and they do what you suggested you have to pay for the parts and service even if that does not fix the problem. Always tell them to "Find the problem" and call you with the costs to repair it. Always make it clear that you expect the problem to be properly diagnosed and the failing part identified. If they replace the part and that does not solve the problem then you are not obligated to pay for the part or their labor.



Don't let them suggest replacing parts that might be related because they don't know what's causing the problem and just want to start replacing parts.



If they shop does not have the diagnostic tools or the don't have anyone who can use them, they you should not be taking your vehicle to them. Modern vehicles have many more sophisticated controls that cannot be properly diagnosed without the proper equipment. It's not like the cars of 30+ years ago.



If they cannot diagnose the problem go somewhere else, or you are better off replacing the parts yourself and saving their huge labor rates. If you don't know how to do it, get a repair manual and some tools and start to learn, otherwise you may never get your Sport Trac fixed

 

[Chris Kulbaba]

I am starting to beleive my problem is the EVR Solenoid I beleive its called. As RichardL said, it only ever did it once warm, so the EGR Valve replacement was probably not required. However its preventative maintenance in my book.

 

[Adam Yee]

Hey RichardL.. Thanks for all the advice.. I didn't specify for them to replace anything.. I just told them about the problem i was having and that I wanted to have it fixed. I paid for a diagnosis that ended up not fixing anything or giving me any answers besides the IAC motor I had was fine... I didn't have to pay for the new IAC motor as it was returned back to the dealer..



I will wait for XST to see if his issue is resolved by his EGR fixes.. I took what ToddZ told me to do to check if the EGR valve is working.. I "sucked" on the hose and it caused the motor to want to stall.. so I assumed the EGR valve was ok.. I also replaced my DPFE sensor with my old one (I replaced it a year ago) to see if it made a difference.. it felt like it did, but then my CEL light came on saying that P1401 (DPFE sensor) was seeing high voltage.. which is why i replaced it in the first place..



THANK YOU FOR ALL THE HELP! I'm sure at some point I will be able to resolve this and let everyone else know for future reference!