Bulletproof Front Sway Bar End Links

[blert]

I tried, I really did. Put them all together first and set to tighten them up. Had it up to 20 pounds on the torque wrench but the bushings did not sit correctly. The little flanges just did not have enough squish to force them into the holes in the lower control arm or the bar itself. It may be a case-by-case thing: my lower arms and bar are stock, others may not be. My advice is try first, if they don't sit in properly take it apart and shave them down a bit.

 

[Fordtruckfan89]

I did the same recently. I made extended length links by using 7/16 b7 (grade 5 threaded rod) matches the height of the torsion twisted front end. I think I used 12" pieces. Used metal lock nuts and put red loctite on one to act like a bolt so I could tighten the nut on the other end.

 

[terence mcgovern]

Yes it does! I've been driving around with a broken link for a month now (less than a year old) so I am keening following these updates as a collect the parts needed for some bulletproof links this time. Thanks for your posts all.

How does the vehicle feel when it needs those links?

 

[swshawaii]

Nice work @Fordtruckfan89
Having the sway bar arms parallel with the lower control arms is a cost effective mod and under utilized. Explorers and Sport Tracs are different than most vehicles because the front sway bar eyelets point down.
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-sway-bar-end-links.asp

 

[swshawaii]

How does the vehicle feel when it needs those links?

Hard for me to describe because it's been years since I've had broken end links. Front end and steering will feel sloppy and unresponsive. Best way to determine if they are compromised is get under the front and lightly tap on them to see if they are loose or disconnected. If you hear a metallic rattle when hitting bumps they probably need attention. You may also notice more cab leaning in turns. Also inspect the front and rear sway bar frame bushings and end links while you're under there. REAR sway bar end links are a different design, but the pressed in rubber bushings are highly prone to wear.

Ford TSB from 2004 to replace both complete rear sway bar end links.
https://sporttrac.org/threads/need-info-on-a-tsb.61649/post-532556

 

[terence mcgovern]

I don’t hear well so I’ll have a look. I do feel that at times when I turn that it feels a little sudden as opposed to fluid

 

[blert]

I don’t hear well so I’ll have a look. I do feel that at times when I turn that it feels a little sudden as opposed to fluid

Oh, you will hear it, it's not subtle. My driveway has a gutter at the end that runs along the street. Pull out into the street at more than a crawl and the front end would clank and bang. At first clank I would slide under and tighten them up a bit. Also, do you feel you get blown around by crosswinds at highway speeds? That is a good indicator that the links are loose or the bushings are damaged.

 

[WinoOutWest]

How does the vehicle feel when it needs those links?

As @swshawaii said it feels loose/sloppy, particularly at highway speeds. Also mine is actually broken now so it rattles/knocks when I slowly hit bumps sometimes

 

[terence mcgovern]

Oh, you will hear it, it's not subtle. My driveway has a gutter at the end that runs along the street. Pull out into the street at more than a crawl and the front end would clank and bang. At first clank I would slide under and tighten them up a bit. Also, do you feel you get blown around by crosswinds at highway speeds? That is a good indicator that the links are loose or the bushings are damaged.

No loud noises. Might get a little wind action when crossing a bridge in high winds

 

[WinoOutWest]

I did the same recently. I made extended length links by using 7/16 b7 (grade 5 threaded rod) matches the height of the torsion twisted front end. I think I used 12" pieces. Used metal lock nuts and put red loctite on one to act like a bolt so I could tighten the nut on the other end. View attachment 4112

I am 0 for 2 with the kits. One set had 7/16" bolts but 9.75" length - the other was 10.4" long but had skinny bolts. I think I am just going to get some threaded rod for this and be done! Still happy with the threaded rod for this?

 

[blert]

I am 0 for 2 with the kits. One set had 7/6" bolts but 9.75" length - the other was 10.4" long but had skinny bolts. I think I am just going to get some threaded rod for this and be done! Still happy with the threaded rod for this?

Rockauto lists the bolt length and diameter for much of their stock. They carry a number of brands that will work.

 

[Fordtruckfan89]

Rod holds up fine. Still using it

 

[swshawaii]

@WinoOutWest
7/16" all thread should work fine, and have been proven to hold up even when extended several inches with lifted trucks.

Did some research regarding K7275 bolt diameters of various brands and found the "Quick Steer" brand uses 7/16" x 10.29" bolts at a much lower price than Moog. Curiously both are owned by Federal Mogul. (See "Application Summary")
https://www.finditparts.com/products/9970114/quick-steer-k7275

 

[WinoOutWest]

The kit I used is the Mevotech MK7275. It has a 10.4" bolt. Mevotech also has the GK7275 with a 10.35" bolt for cheaper but I spent the extra couple of bucks to get the kit in black. The Moog K7275 has a 10.295" bolt. Any of these kits should work without having to compress the front end, but might struggle a bit with Moog kit.

The Mevotech TXK7275 (10.1" bolt) and the Delphi TD626W (10.02" bolt) would have made the job a lot harder.

While there are other 7/16" kits on Rockauto, they don't state the bolt length, so that's a gamble.

I got this Mevotech MK7275 kit and got 9.75" bolts.

 

[blert]

I got this Mevotech MK7275 kit and got 9.75" bolts.

That's messed up. All the Mevotech kits, except for the barrel-nut version, are stated as having >10" bolts. See if they will send you a new one?

 

[WinoOutWest]

I've moved on.
Been driving around for a month+ with a broken link - just want to get this done after ordering 2 different kits just for the right bolts. Already have everything else for a while now so I picked up 2 12" threaded rods from a local hardware store and will get them installed tomorrow.

Probably won't even cut them if I have lots of clearance.

 

[WinoOutWest]

Finally got mine installed. I went with the threaded rod like @Fordtruckfan89 What a difference! (and hopefully, they last more than 6 months!)
Just wanted to thank all those that take time to contribute their time and content here for the benefit of others (like me).
Such a great source of knowledge!
Cheers!

 

[Rodger Tellefson]

I highly recommend doing this end link upgrade, but recommend using the Proghane 1-1/4” bushings as they are harder than the ES bushings.

 

[Rodger Tellefson]

I've moved on.
Been driving around for a month+ with a broken link - just want to get this done after ordering 2 different kits just for the right bolts. Already have everything else for a while now so I picked up 2 12" threaded rods from a local hardware store and will get them installed tomorrow.

Probably won't even cut them if I have lots of clearance.

Just loosened the sway bar and you’ll have not problem with clearance.

 

[swshawaii]

I highly recommend doing this end link upgrade, but recommend using the Proghane 1-1/4” bushings as they are harder than the ES bushings.

Rodger, ES 9.8103 and Prothane 19426 bushings are identical. Dimensions and durometer are the same. Both have "4802" molded into them.

See cross reference in link below to compare.
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.8103