Radio Issues -Power Windows/etc.

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Joe Marek

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Jul 22, 2012
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Cape Coral, FL
Went to the trac this morning and smell that burnt electronic smell. Key fob was not working, car would ding like the keys were in the ignition (when they weren't) and the radio wasn't working. Did some trouble shooting and pulled the radio and it seems to be the culprit. Radio has a burnt spot and reaks like burnt electronics.



Once I unhook the radio the vehicle doesn't ding like the keys are in the ignition and the fob is working. I was just going to drive around with no radio hooked up until I order a new one. I noticed that with the radio disconnected the windows and back window will not operate. Once I hook the radio up they work (but then I get the other issues back).



Does the radio have to be hooked up to provide power to the windows? Will this all function properly once I connect an aftermarket deck? I also noticed that when I adjust the dimmer switch the relays (in the cab by the drivers right foot area) make a crackle noise. I have checked all wires and nothing seems to be damaged. Anyone have any similar problems or input?
 
Sounds like the wires shorted and the radio is backfeeding the power to the truck.



the Factory wiring does not work that way, i ahve driven my st with no radio and all worked..



If you have an aftermarket radio, who ever did the wiring should never touch radios again.



Todd Z
 
Thanks for your help Todd. This was the factory CD player with the factory harness. I have a new radio coming this week. Hopefully all will be well with the new the new deck in place.
 
TEST all the wires in the truck prior to install..... Make sure nothing is back feeding and all have no stray voltages...



Good luck !



Todd Z
 
I was planning on checking the wires for the deck prior to installing the new one. I have looked them over fairly well. The previous owner had an aftermarket alarm system that I removed a while back. It was crazy how many wires were associated with it. Is there any easy way to test them? I have a volt meter/etc. Test them from the fuse panel?
 
The radio ones are straight forward, check the continuity for proper polarity. The alarm wires should not be tied into the alarm. You can use a paper clip or pin and use the voltmeter and test them right at the plug. This way you know they are all ok..



Todd Z
 
Well to update anyone interested. Got the new radio all set up and working, done a bit of troubleshooting before installing. I had the local autoparts store scan a code that I was getting (turned out to be rear o2, so not related to the issue). I told the guy what was happened with the radio and the idiot took out fuse 20 (to inspect it) and put it in slot 23 (blank circuit). The windows weren't working due to the fuse being replaced in the wrong spot.



Long story short, I am assuming the radio was so fried that it must have been backfeeding power from the 12v constant through the circuit (even with no fues in place). 12 V constant still had power with the fuse removed. This is the only explanation I can think the windows would work without a fuse in the panel for that circuit.
 

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