Tailgate Lock Actuator Project - QUESTION

[Thomas Rogers]

I just purchased an actuator off eBay ($9.00 total, including shipping). And, I have read Chops project in the project section.



It is all straightforward and I have no questions about what the project describes, persay.



However, I do have a couple of questions for those that have done this project, or those that are thinking about doing it:



1) Wouldn't wiring connectors for the line to the actuator be in order for this project so that *IF* the tailgate needed to be removed for whatever reason so easier unconnecting would be possible? I assume having the connector somewhere close to tailgate would be required. Any comments on the need, and placement?



2) Anyone have any pictures that show exactly where the wire comes out of the tailgate and into the underside of the truck bed? I am having trouble visualizing that. One of my concerns is that the constant open and close action of the tailgate will stress the wires. Are the wires protected in any way; and anyone have any comments on this concern?



TJR

 

[Chops]

"IF" you think you might take the tailgate off, then by all means add a waterproof connector.

I have no plans to ever have a reason to take mine off.



Use a good grade wire, say 18-20g fine stranded wire. It should be limber and flexible. The wires will probably last the life of the truck, just as the door speaker wires, door power window wires,door lock wires usually last the life of a vehicle, with exceptions of course. Think about how many times the drivers' door is opened/closed during the life, and those wires are stressed also. I did not protect my wires by means of a cover or sheath, but you can if you feel it is needed.I ran my wires out of an existing hole on the bottom right side of the tailgate.

 

[Thomas Rogers]

Thanks Chops...and thanks for the project. I will reply here with my results and any other feedback. I am looking forward to this mod.

 

[Richard L]

TJR,

Yes, most tailgate lock kits come with two separate wiring harnesses. One from the actuator motor to the bottom of the tailgate where it terminates in a weatherproof polorized connector, and the second longer harness includes the matching tailgate connector and wire to attach to the vehicles door lock system (usually located at the rear door sill in the Sport Trac).



It's probably also wise to get some 1/4" plastic wire loom to protect the wiring that runs under the truck.



...Rich

 

[Thomas Rogers]

Any good source or part number for the connectors RichardL or anyone else...I would love to make this a professional looking.

 

[Jim Rohr]

TJR,



I picked up a simple male/female wiring harness from the electrical parts store so that I could do exactly what you mention. I also got the wire loom to protect the wiring all the way from the tailgate to the underside of the rear door (where it enters the cab). Sorry, I don't have any pictures for you, but if you get on the ground, you will find a suitable location to run the wiring.



And chops, fantastic project write-up. It's probably my favorite trac mod. Thanks.

 

[Thomas Rogers]

Is there any connector made that would plug into the existing connector in the door post that would eliminate the need to cut and splice the existing wires? I was under the impression that the after-market tailgate lock "kits" were spliceless in their installation.



Clearly I am looking for something that leaves as LITTLE visible evidence as possible should I wish to remove it, and limit the amount of existing wiring that I cut/splice to a minimum (none would be good).



TJR

 

[Tabjo]

Sounds like MFN and I had the same approach to Chops' project. Here are some pics, and I have had to remove my tailgate 3-4 times since this mod, so it does come in handy from time to time.



This is also one of my favorite projects, simple, cheap, and very functional. Thanks Chops.



Plastic wire loom from underneath the truck into the tail gate:

[Broken External Image]:



Quick connect/disconnect with the sleave pulled back:

[Broken External Image]:



Disconnected:

[Broken External Image]:

 

[Cajun]

I ran mine though a square hole in the bottom of the tailgate. I also used a wire loom to hide and protect the wire. Mine can't be seen from the rear at all. I also took a 4 prong tailer hitch plug and cut it in-half. I have not installed the plug yet .....been too busy procrastinating.

[Broken External Image]:

[Broken External Image]:



Thanks Chops for the Project ........Best mod I have done !!!.

 

[Chops]

Hey you guys are most welcome.

Enjoy!!

 

[Thomas Rogers]

Now THAT's What I AM Talking about; Thanks Tabjo!....maybe we need an updated project???



It's settled. I will get the wire loom and in=line connectors (I may even have some). Interesting placement on the connectors Tabjo...I would have placed them under the vehicle, but your location is much more functional...right there where you need to get at them.



I can't wait to do this! This is the one mod that Ford should make standard!



TJR

 

[Richard L]

TJR,

I include a weather tight, polorized connector for my EZLok kits, but they only have about a 6" pigtail on them so they have to be grafted on to the ends of the wiring harnesses using crimp-on connectors and/or splices with shrink tubing.



I have plenty of spares and they only cost about a dollar each, however shipping would cost about $4. If you can't find one at your local stores let me know.



As for connecting to the lock/unlock wires under the rear passenger-side door sill, I use an inline splice connector that just clamps onto the existing wire so no cutting, or soldering is necessary and since they are protected inside the wiring track in the floor, no tape or insulation is needed either.



If you want the weather proof tailgate connector and 2 inline wire taps, I can send them for a total of $6 but they would be cheaper if you could find them locally.



...Rich

 

[Thomas Rogers]

Thanks, Richard...sounds like I can get them local. Let me check the National Auto and PepBoys near me.