what is a good price on a 2007 v8

Ford SportTrac Forum

Help Support Ford SportTrac Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

V Ro

Active Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2005
Messages
140
Reaction score
0
Location
,
I know what kbb and edmunds say, but with all the specials for ford or deals they have been making, what would be a good price?



v8 sunroof, rearwindow, maybe a limited.



how much under invoice are people getting out the door?



Thanks
 
I didn't get any deal on mine 2 months ago. I got a V8 Limited loaded, minus the rear slider for just over $35k. I'm sure if you look around you'll find a good deal somewhere.
 
I have an xplan, I got a v8, 4x4 slt, w/power sliding rear window, upgraded seats, bed extender, upgraded tires, and upgraded tow packinga for $27,800 w/ 2.9% interest on tuesday. I think I was looking at closer to 30k for a limited, but I couldn't find one with the other options I was looking for and couldn't wait the time needed to order one...Good luck, I just got mine Tuesday and I love it:D
 
+1 on what SST said. Be persistant and tell them that you will ONLY negotiate from the Dealer Invoice. Ask to see the dealer's invoice at the very beginning of negotiations adn go from there. I would offer them $50 -$100 over dealer invoice plus additional incentives.
 
are the upgraded tires worth it...or will it eat at my gas milage?



I have a 2003 and it sounds like the new v8 gets the same gas milage? but with bigger tires I may lose some. I don't need 4x4
 
Ditto what SST and Lil Red said. If you ever pay $50-100 over invoice, you're paying too much. Especially now, when they're hurting for sales. Ask them to see the invoice, and take note of when the dealer received the vehicle. They will have been making payments on that vehicle from that date, and every day longer that it sits on their lot costs them money. If they've had it a while, they'll be more willing to deal with you to get rid of it. You have another advantage if you go right now: It's the end of the month, and the end of the quarter. Go in in the next couple of days, but wait until about 7pm at night. Keep them there as long as it takes (even after closing-trust me, if they want to sell the vehicle, they won't shove you out the door at closing time) and stick to your guns on your price.



Don't be afraid to walk out the door if you don't get the deal you want. Keep a good poker face. The worst thing you can do is get emotionally caught up in the vehicle. If they sense this, you've lost. The car sale negotiation process is nothing more than a mind game and a battle of wills.



Good Luck!:)
 
I wouldn't have wanted the upgraded tires, I took the closest vehicle to what I wanted, and it just happened to have them. My gas mileage is stating 12.7, but considering for some reason it was at 4mpg when I left I'm going to give it a while before I really know what I'm getting.



Another option is used 2007, they are out there now, but with the discounts and my xplan I would have been paying more for a used one. I paid less than invoice so theoretically you could, but I don't know how they will deal without a discount plan. I had tried to get prices lower than my xplan but I guess that's really as low as they can go. I did get a couple hundred dollars in fees waived.



I don't know where you live but here it was either $2k off and your own financing, or $500 off and 2.9% financing which makes a good deal:)
 
Great advice Train Trac, especially the part about it being the end of the month and the end of the quarter. V Ro, if you're ready to pull the trigger on a new ST you could not have picked a better time. To reitterate the other thing that Train Trac siad, go in around 7 and hold your ground with asking for invoice price, you can't loose. Good luck!
 
Yes, great advice Train Trac. End of the month and end of Q1. April 1st the dealer pays inventory fees on what is not sold in March. They want to move inventory plus the sales guys have a monthly quota. 1 more sale could save their jobs if they haven't sold enough units.
 
There's another grand right now for anyone owning a 1998 or up explorer, explorer sport, or sport trac.



And all the financial advise above is good, but can be wrong, depending on the vehicle and dealer. Some dealers have holdbacks from other dealers because of transfers, etc. Some charge rediculous doc fees. Some will give you a great price, but screw you on trade, accessories, etc.



Best bet is to walk in, tell them what vehicle you want and with what features, and tell them you're willing to give them a "$300 gross." Also, tell them you have no trade. Sell the trade outright in the paper, or online. The "gross" refers to the amount of money they make on the vehicle regardless of any circumstances. That's basically saying you get all incentives, and you'll pay them $300 more than what they ultimately have in the vehicle. If they don't agree, tell them see ya. Another dealer will.



One thing to keep in mind is that although you're trying to get the best price possible, the salesman whose time you're occupying, the manager, the F&I guy, the detailers, etc., as well as the dealership itself has bills to pay. A good price is great, but a reasonable profit is acceptable for them. That's how your salesman feeds his family.
 
Don't worry about dealer holdbacks, that's a variable that you can't do anything about. You don't know if there are any holdback and they are not going to tell you so it's a mute point and it's not your problem. I'm not sure if your considering a trade or not but my reccomendation would be to sell your own vehicle, unless they give you a fair price for your trade. The worse thing you can do is dilute your deal with a bad trade so I always suggest keeping it out of the equation. Sell it yourself as suggested.



My last point: the salesman, the manager, the F&I guy, the detailers, etc., as well as the dealership itself is not your responsibility. You go in and get the best deal possible so you have more $$ in your pocket to take care of your own family.
 
The choice is yours, but if you go in and say I'll allow this fixed amount of profit, they usually won't even try anything shady and tell you about rebates/holdbacks, etc. They see it as a sign that you respect what they do, and in turn, they do it better for you. :)
 
just went down to Ford and was quoted 30k OTD for a 36k Edge loaded.



I told them:



Best price... now.



started at 36k....



then went to 32k....



then 30k....





Not bad, I dont think.





Just don't be excited, NEVER love the vehicle, just act as if you "kinda like it."



And tell them you are shopping and you want their number written down so you can compare... after asking this, they came back with a 30k OTD price...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I agree. Most dealers will not talk price over the phone. They want you to come in and pick a vehicle they have in stock or pick the options you want to order, then they will begin negotiating the price. Also, most dealers will not show you the invoice price, so you have to do your homework and find out what that vehicle is costing the dealer in order to know if you are getting a good deal or not.



You can negotiate the price down below the dealer's invoice because of the holdback, so while you can't do anything about the holdback, knowing what it is will often allow you to negotiate a lower price if that dealer is willing to lose a little of his holdback to make a sale. This is often best done near the end of the month when salesman have quotas and dealers have to pay the intrest on the vehicle stock they have on their lot.



...Rich



 

Latest posts

Top