DVDSWAN 02 Sport Trac Build/Maintenance thread

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curtis james said:
The back tailgate does not get used as much as the ignition does so tumbler and key wear down so if you have a spare with better points on key i would try it and wiggle, this was a issue for a couple trucks i had, with no need for chip take to locksmith shop to have a key made should be cheaper if you take to them.
Click to expand...
I need to get a used tailgate from a salvage yard, but am wondering what the best course of action would be:
1. swap out the used tailgate locking mechanism, installing the current one I have (so the same key will work)
or
2. get the replacement tailgate lock cylinder rekeyed to match the current key
I have removed the plastic cover on the inside of my tailgate, but I have no idea how difficult it is to remove the locking mechanism. I realize the tailgate swap doesn't require any tools.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
dvdswan said:
So I tried to lock the tailgate today. Key wouldn't turn. Guessing the handle was probably changed and the lock cylinder wasn't swapped. So how hard is it to re-key the tailgate lock cylinder and does it have a lock actuator in the tailgate?
Click to expand...
Did you ever figure this out?
I need to get a used tailgate from a salvage yard, but am wondering what the best course of action would be:
1. swap out the used tailgate locking mechanism, installing the current one I have (so the same key will work)
or
2. get the replacement tailgate lock cylinder rekeyed to match the current key
I have removed the plastic cover on the inside of my tailgate, but I have no idea how difficult it is to remove the locking mechanism. I realize the tailgate swap doesn't require any tools.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
dvdswan said:
Got to work on the ST again today. The plan was (that's never a good start, LOL) to replace the #3 injector. While I was at it I was going to install the t-stat housing and do both tensioners. I used the link below as a guide, pretty decent step-by-step.



Everything was going well until I found the injector sleeve for #3 was broken, most likely that was the cause of the misfire.

IMG_2649.JPG



I wasn't real happy to see that. Looked at rockauto they were between $11 and $18 but I needed them today, so I called a couple parts stores and NAPA had them but they would have them until Monday or I could drive to store. Since it was only 30 miles away I went and got them and found out they thought they were gold sleeves at $42. (sigh) Bit the bullet I wanted to finish the truck today. Got home had to watch a video to see how you install them.



Finished that, installed injector and fuel rail on pass. side. Started on t-stat housing, removed it and went to clean the surface for the gasket...

IMG_2650.JPG



I don't remember seeing a set pin... Hey why are there only 2 bolt holes I did 3. (sigh) Well, at least there was a good 1/4" sticking out of the lower intake. Got some Vise grips and tapped on the set screws and twisted. 5 minutes later...

VICTORY!!!!

IMG_2651.JPG



Had to run to the local Ace Hardware and find a M6x1.00x80 bolt.

Replaced the l/s tensioner and then installed the new t-stat housing.

IMG_2652.JPG



Didn't think much about it at the time but the coolant sensors were kind of loose, didn't think about replacing the gaskets with the o-rings from the plugs. (sigh) Everything when back together really smooth after that and started to refill the coolant. 1/2 way through the 2nd gallon I start hearing water dripping. Look underneath and sure enough (sigh) coolant dripping from front of engine. Grab a flashlight and searched to see if I missed a hose. Nope both coolant sensors were seeping. (explicitives followed)

So, I tried to just loosen intake and get to the sensors but no joy. So, I have to repull the intake on the 4th. :(

I swear this truck likes to fight me. LOL but I will succeed.


I do have a question though.

I think the PVC valve is bad because 1 and 4 intake runners were oily and gooey on the inside. A sticky gooey. Would the PVC cause this?

IMG_2653.JPG
Click to expand...

Where did you get that aluminum t-stat housing?
 
Adam Smith said:
Did you ever figure this out?
I need to get a used tailgate from a salvage yard, but am wondering what the best course of action would be:
1. swap out the used tailgate locking mechanism, installing the current one I have (so the same key will work)
or
2. get the replacement tailgate lock cylinder rekeyed to match the current key
I have removed the plastic cover on the inside of my tailgate, but I have no idea how difficult it is to remove the locking mechanism. I realize the tailgate swap doesn't require any tools.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Click to expand...

Yes, I sprayed a bunch of WD-40 in the lock cylinder and also on the key. This eventually loosened up the crude that was on it and the cylinder started to turn freely.

If that doesn't work for you, pull off the t/gate panel and spray the lock cylinder from that side and the side latches as well. Mine were pretty gunked up as well.
 
I am actually going to replace my dented tailgate. So I want to get a used one at a salvage yard. But of course I want my current key (which works the ignition, doors, bed cover, and dented tailgate) to work in the replacement tailgate. Should I swap out my current lock cylinder, and install in the replacement tailgate, or get the replacement tailgate and remove the lock cylinder and take it to be rekeyed to work with my key?
 
Swapping lock cylinder is super simple. the hardest part is unbolting the panel from the tailgate. The pictures are from me swapping the handle for one with a camera.

Post #92 https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/2002-sport-trac.504864/page-5

1721065709978.png


The key lock cylinder can be removed by pulling the "c" clip, the cylinder will pop out to the rear of the handle and slide into the new one and clip by itself.

1721065754822.png
 
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