DVDSWAN 02 Sport Trac Build/Maintenance thread

[Adam Smith]

The back tailgate does not get used as much as the ignition does so tumbler and key wear down so if you have a spare with better points on key i would try it and wiggle, this was a issue for a couple trucks i had, with no need for chip take to locksmith shop to have a key made should be cheaper if you take to them.

I need to get a used tailgate from a salvage yard, but am wondering what the best course of action would be:
1. swap out the used tailgate locking mechanism, installing the current one I have (so the same key will work)
or
2. get the replacement tailgate lock cylinder rekeyed to match the current key
I have removed the plastic cover on the inside of my tailgate, but I have no idea how difficult it is to remove the locking mechanism. I realize the tailgate swap doesn't require any tools.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Adam Smith]

So I tried to lock the tailgate today. Key wouldn't turn. Guessing the handle was probably changed and the lock cylinder wasn't swapped. So how hard is it to re-key the tailgate lock cylinder and does it have a lock actuator in the tailgate?

Did you ever figure this out?
I need to get a used tailgate from a salvage yard, but am wondering what the best course of action would be:
1. swap out the used tailgate locking mechanism, installing the current one I have (so the same key will work)
or
2. get the replacement tailgate lock cylinder rekeyed to match the current key
I have removed the plastic cover on the inside of my tailgate, but I have no idea how difficult it is to remove the locking mechanism. I realize the tailgate swap doesn't require any tools.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Adam Smith]

Got to work on the ST again today. The plan was (that's never a good start, LOL) to replace the #3 injector. While I was at it I was going to install the t-stat housing and do both tensioners. I used the link below as a guide, pretty decent step-by-step.



Everything was going well until I found the injector sleeve for #3 was broken, most likely that was the cause of the misfire.

I wasn't real happy to see that. Looked at rockauto they were between $11 and $18 but I needed them today, so I called a couple parts stores and NAPA had them but they would have them until Monday or I could drive to store. Since it was only 30 miles away I went and got them and found out they thought they were gold sleeves at $42. (sigh) Bit the bullet I wanted to finish the truck today. Got home had to watch a video to see how you install them.



Finished that, installed injector and fuel rail on pass. side. Started on t-stat housing, removed it and went to clean the surface for the gasket...

I don't remember seeing a set pin... Hey why are there only 2 bolt holes I did 3. (sigh) Well, at least there was a good 1/4" sticking out of the lower intake. Got some Vise grips and tapped on the set screws and twisted. 5 minutes later...

VICTORY!!!!

Had to run to the local Ace Hardware and find a M6x1.00x80 bolt.

Replaced the l/s tensioner and then installed the new t-stat housing.

Didn't think much about it at the time but the coolant sensors were kind of loose, didn't think about replacing the gaskets with the o-rings from the plugs. (sigh) Everything when back together really smooth after that and started to refill the coolant. 1/2 way through the 2nd gallon I start hearing water dripping. Look underneath and sure enough (sigh) coolant dripping from front of engine. Grab a flashlight and searched to see if I missed a hose. Nope both coolant sensors were seeping. (explicitives followed)

So, I tried to just loosen intake and get to the sensors but no joy. So, I have to repull the intake on the 4th.

I swear this truck likes to fight me. LOL but I will succeed.


I do have a question though.

I think the PVC valve is bad because 1 and 4 intake runners were oily and gooey on the inside. A sticky gooey. Would the PVC cause this?

Where did you get that aluminum t-stat housing?

 

[dvdswan]

Did you ever figure this out?
I need to get a used tailgate from a salvage yard, but am wondering what the best course of action would be:
1. swap out the used tailgate locking mechanism, installing the current one I have (so the same key will work)
or
2. get the replacement tailgate lock cylinder rekeyed to match the current key
I have removed the plastic cover on the inside of my tailgate, but I have no idea how difficult it is to remove the locking mechanism. I realize the tailgate swap doesn't require any tools.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Yes, I sprayed a bunch of WD-40 in the lock cylinder and also on the key. This eventually loosened up the crude that was on it and the cylinder started to turn freely.

If that doesn't work for you, pull off the t/gate panel and spray the lock cylinder from that side and the side latches as well. Mine were pretty gunked up as well.

 

[dvdswan]

Where did you get that aluminum t-stat housing?

rockauto

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ystem,thermostat+housing+/+water+outlet,10337

It was the SKP one with no sensors. I should have just bought the one with sensors as the old O-rings were wornout and would not seal.

 

[Adam Smith]

I am actually going to replace my dented tailgate. So I want to get a used one at a salvage yard. But of course I want my current key (which works the ignition, doors, bed cover, and dented tailgate) to work in the replacement tailgate. Should I swap out my current lock cylinder, and install in the replacement tailgate, or get the replacement tailgate and remove the lock cylinder and take it to be rekeyed to work with my key?

 

[dvdswan]

Swapping lock cylinder is super simple. the hardest part is unbolting the panel from the tailgate. The pictures are from me swapping the handle for one with a camera.

Post #92 https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/2002-sport-trac.504864/page-5

The key lock cylinder can be removed by pulling the "c" clip, the cylinder will pop out to the rear of the handle and slide into the new one and clip by itself.

 

[dvdswan]

Nothing much today. Wife searching CL for stuff and found free bricks...

Made the truck look lowered.

 

[DILLARD000]

Nothing much today. Wife searching CL for stuff and found free bricks...

Made the truck look lowered.

View attachment 5401

View attachment 5402

Nice, enough to make a really well built outhouse!

 

[dvdswan]

Another small quick day. I fixed the tonneau cover rubber cap. I got the idea off the https://web.archive.org/web/20170912002616/http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/ as it was a fix.

https://web.archive.org/web/20170912002616/http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/

Before:

And now its flat. I'll have to take a picture of it. Thought I did.

 

[dvdswan]

Got to spend some quality time with the ST today. I installed the BOSS radio I got a while back.

Hooked and installed the Charger and ApplePlay port also.

Put tape on the bottom port so I knew which one would be the ApplePlay or Charging port...

Finished installing the backup camera... punched a hole in the center plate and drilled a hole at the bottom of the tailgate...

Pulled wires through...

Ran tape around the wires to protect them from chaffing...

I bought some grommets to seal the bottom of tailgate....


cut a hole and fed the wires through and installed into tailgate...

installed a weatherproof connector...

ran the cable along the side of the cab...

and cleaned up the rest of the glass from the broken driver's window drama...

Drilled a hole by the rear body mount, then fed through an existing hole ( I believe the is factory)...

All connected up... I need to power it with reverse still.

I also fixed my connections for the topper for a cleaner look...

When I get a back glass and side glass for the topper, I'll hook up the connector to it...

Dave

 

[Shawn Monzingo]

Nice work!! I'll be doing the same thing on mine soon as I just got the camera last week. Just need to set aside a weekend to make the changes.

 

[Dmiranda1269]

Got to spend some quality time with the ST today. I installed the BOSS radio I got a while back.

Hooked and installed the Charger and ApplePlay port also.

Put tape on the bottom port so I knew which one would be the ApplePlay or Charging port...

Finished installing the backup camera... punched a hole in the center plate and drilled a hole at the bottom of the tailgate...

Pulled wires through...

Ran tape around the wires to protect them from chaffing...

I bought some grommets to seal the bottom of tailgate....


cut a hole and fed the wires through and installed into tailgate...

installed a weatherproof connector...

ran the cable along the side of the cab...

and cleaned up the rest of the glass from the broken driver's window drama...

Drilled a hole by the rear body mount, then fed through an existing hole ( I believe the is factory)...

All connected up... I need to power it with reverse still.

I also fixed my connections for the topper for a cleaner look...

When I get a back glass and side glass for the topper, I'll hook up the connector to it...

Dave

Need to redo my connections for my cap. But it's been sitting on the street since first week of April, haven't even started it. I only drive my mustang in the summer since sport trac needs a condenser and I'm not wanting to do it

 

[dvdswan]

No pictures tonight, but I installed the dr. side window vents since the dr. rear door was missing since I bought it and I broke the dr. door one when I was digging out the broken glass fiasco.

 

[dvdswan]

Changed the oil/filter on both the ST and Explorer. I also did a coolant flush and replaced the broken petcock on the radiator of the ST. Hoping that I get a chance this next weekend to do the body mounts.

 

[Adam Smith]

I need to get a used tailgate from a salvage yard, but am wondering what the best course of action would be:
1. swap out the used tailgate locking mechanism, installing the current one I have (so the same key will work)
or
2. get the replacement tailgate lock cylinder rekeyed to match the current key
I have removed the plastic cover on the inside of my tailgate, but I have no idea how difficult it is to remove the locking mechanism. I realize the tailgate swap doesn't require any tools.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

I found a used 2003 (my Trac is 2004) tailgate at a salvage yard for $100. I just swapped out the handles, so I have my original tailgate handle in the new (used) tailgate. There is nothing more involved in removing the handle than removing the tailgate plastic liner (used a special tool to pop the four plugs, and then removed 6 bolts), unbolting two 11mm nuts, and maneuvering the handle assembly out. Goes in just as easily. I now have an extra tailgate liner, and handle assembly (no key for the lock). I'm in San Diego if anyone needs these items, otherwise will post on Craigslist. When I have time, I'll also have a look around this site to see if there is a used parts section to post (I think I saw one). Thanks.

 

[dvdswan]

Question time. Apologize as this is long....

When doing the oil change I noticed the left front inner tire was almost bald, obviously the alignment is needing done. I was looking at doing the ball joints, TREs, and shocks. Since I don't have a press and UCAs and LCAs are cheap, I'm just going to get those.

As for the TREs,
(Q1) Do I really need to get new inners since they are just rods (no moving parts) into the steering rack?

I noticed a suspension kit More Information for MEVOTECH KIT111 and looked at the items sold separately and found the kit is 80.00 more than sold individually and if I don't need the inner TREs it will be 100.00 less. I plan on getting these Gabriel shocks https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8566&cc=1385355&pt=7556&jsn=317 and https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3020979&cc=1385355&pt=15174&jsn=322 as well. Once all that is installed, I can get tires.

(Q2) Are MEVOTECH products good quality?

As usual, I got sidetracked and went down a rabbit hole. Started looking at lift kits again.

I've been toying the idea of doing a TT and shackle then started looking at actual kits, 4" - 6" kits. Knowing the ST is basically a Ranger drivetrain I started searching all the threads. I found this thread Ranger lift kits can be used on Explorers? and post #18 explained everything I needed/wanted to know.

5 Inch Lift Kit | Multiple Makes & Models (Ford/Mazda) $1099.95

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/maxtrac-5-6-lift-kit-k883053c/_/R-FRFC-K883053C $850.14

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/superlift-4-lift-kit-k358/_/R-BGFG-K358 $1719.96

https://www.amazon.com/TORCH-Leveling-compatible-1998-2011-Ranger/dp/B07S5GDYD5?tag=seriouexplor-20 $119.95

I still leaning on doing the TT for about an 1-1/2" in the front and 1" shackle in the rear and fit 32s under it.

I guessing this will be November timeframe for front suspension, shocks, and possibly the TORCH kit as well as new tires. But I need to get the body mounts done first, hoping next weekend.

 

[Dmiranda1269]

Question time. Apologize as this is long....

When doing the oil change I noticed the left front inner tire was almost bald, obviously the alignment is needing done. I was looking at doing the ball joints, TREs, and shocks. Since I don't have a press and UCAs and LCAs are cheap, I'm just going to get those.

As for the TREs,
(Q1) Do I really need to get new inners since they are just rods (no moving parts) into the steering rack?

I noticed a suspension kit More Information for MEVOTECH KIT111 and looked at the items sold separately and found the kit is 80.00 more than sold individually and if I don't need the inner TREs it will be 100.00 less. I plan on getting these Gabriel shocks https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8566&cc=1385355&pt=7556&jsn=317 and https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3020979&cc=1385355&pt=15174&jsn=322 as well. Once all that is installed, I can get tires.

(Q2) Are MEVOTECH products good quality?

As usual, I got sidetracked and went down a rabbit hole. Started looking at lift kits again.

I've been toying the idea of doing a TT and shackle then started looking at actual kits, 4" - 6" kits. Knowing the ST is basically a Ranger drivetrain I started searching all the threads. I found this thread Ranger lift kits can be used on Explorers? and post #18 explained everything I needed/wanted to know.

5 Inch Lift Kit | Multiple Makes & Models (Ford/Mazda) $1099.95

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/maxtrac-5-6-lift-kit-k883053c/_/R-FRFC-K883053C $850.14

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/superlift-4-lift-kit-k358/_/R-BGFG-K358 $1719.96

https://www.amazon.com/TORCH-Leveling-compatible-1998-2011-Ranger/dp/B07S5GDYD5?tag=seriouexplor-20 $119.95

I still leaning on doing the TT for about an 1-1/2" in the front and 1" shackle in the rear and fit 32s under it.

I guessing this will be November timeframe for front suspension, shocks, and possibly the TORCH kit as well as new tires. But I need to get the body mounts done first, hoping next weekend.

This year my 2010 was hit while parked on street and bent the inner really bad. I'm 54 and that's the first time ever replacing a inner. It was really easy just using a big crescent wrench.
My 2004 I replaced every part in front end whi bought it years ago, upper control arms, and lower ball joints were so easy with a autozone ball joint press tool.

 

[dvdswan]

Did a little shopping

Tires - 265/75R16s Americus ATRs (Walmart.com made in Taiwan) 1st hurdle passed, they balanced fine. They're a 50k tire and they were on sale, so for the price which was over half less of what a BFG AT was I thought I'd give Wally a try. Aside from the time it took they (Walmart) did a lot of extra little details compared to the Discount or Les Schwab do. Cleaned mating surfaces, anti-seized the studs, cleaned the rim edge for weights, and had a 2nd person re-check the torque.

I put some highway miles on them and they are quiet on the freeway and a low rumble on the streets. Went to the j/y and picked up the overhead console and mirror.

I got the overhead console because on mine the film circuit ripped when I tried to replace the bulbs in it.

and the parts I hope to install sooner than later...

UCAs and LCAs l&r...

TREs; inner and outer, and front shocks

Rear shocks and sock...

 

[SwampTrac]

Looks great! I want to go to this size tire too. Be sure to check for rubbing on the rear fender liner. I know some folks who went to 265s had to put spacers in the rear (even my stock 255s rub). I need to replace my shocks also, been putting it off