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I removed my seat covers to clean the interior for Pre sale work on the Black truck... Nothing crazy..
 
New front and rear shocks, changed tranny fluid and filter, replaced wheel speed sensor and cruise control switch, replaced upper and lower radiator hoses. Next, I need to replace valve cover gaskets.
 
NorgeMan said:
New front and rear shocks, changed tranny fluid and filter, replaced wheel speed sensor and cruise control switch, replaced upper and lower radiator hoses. Next, I need to replace valve cover gaskets.
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I can imagine the driving and riding comfort you got there.
 
Thanks for the tip on the fan shroud. I looked on Rockauto for an aluminum t-stat housing. No luck so where can I find one? Again, first time diving into a project like this and appreciate any and all feedback you can give Dillard000. Thanks and enjoying the education from this group.
 
GO BILLS Jake said:
Thanks for the tip on the fan shroud. I looked on Rockauto for an aluminum t-stat housing. No luck so where can I find one? Again, first time diving into a project like this and appreciate any and all feedback you can give Dillard000. Thanks and enjoying the education from this group.
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Todd Z sells them.

IMO... yes, it is an upgrade (not in performance but in reliability) but 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. It's not the most fun job in the world. Not that it is hard, it's just there is not a lot of room to work. Would have been cake while the engine was still out.
If you decide to do it then do the timing tensioners too, if you have not already replaced them.
 
GO BILLS Jake said:
Thanks for the tip on the fan shroud. I looked on Rockauto for an aluminum t-stat housing. No luck so where can I find one? Again, first time diving into a project like this and appreciate any and all feedback you can give Dillard000. Thanks and enjoying the education from this group.
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Click here for more on ThermoStatHousing upgrade to Aluminum.
Aluminum TStatHousings on ToddZ's website
http://www.zabteck.com/thermostats.htm
Aluminum TStatHousings on RockAuto with\wOut TempSensors.
SKP SKRH144C
SKP SKRH144A
Can use old plastic or new aluminum RadiatorHoseBarb~TriFlange piece with the Aluminum Housing; new aluminum is preferred but sometimes they send wrong piece.
2001.Ford_Cool.Stat_Hous.0500_NewPart.GIF
 
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blert said:
Todd Z sells them.

IMO... yes, it is an upgrade (not in performance but in reliability) but 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. It's not the most fun job in the world. Not that it is hard, it's just there is not a lot of room to work. Would have been cake while the engine was still out.
If you decide to do it then do the timing tensioners too, if you have not already replaced them.
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Thank you Blert. Top end rebuild, new guides, tentioners (one was sitting in the oil pan and still ran) head gasket, WP, etc. Engine is bulletproof and wish Ford would have just stuck with this winner 4.0.
 
RR-sport trac said:
well finally started repairing the deer damage from a few months ago - it was just a glancing blow to the front which broke the passenger headlights and some minor dents to fender and hood - straightened hood and fender - installed weather tech bug deflector to hide small imperfections and because I think they look good

Started installing bull guard to front but it does not fit on the front ring pull mounting locations as advertised - must be for a f150 or something although they said it would fit 2002 ST - passed the 60 day return so going to see how I can mount it - spent rest of evening watching videos of how others are mounting them for ideas - will send photo when finished
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This happened over the past week or so but I figured out how to install the bull bar and painted the faded and stained plastic bumper with spray can truck bed coating - replaced headlights and turn signal lights - upgraded headlights to LED -

Bull bar is not really all that stout but looks good - once I figured out how to mount it I like how it fits and if nothing else is a good license plate mount

LED are a lot brighter but still need to have them adjusted - I am thinking to take it to a local shop to have the lights adjusted because the front was bashed around pretty good but may just adjust them myself using the old garage wall method

Bedliner paint on the plastic bumper looks good but may need to repaint next summer when it is hot because it took a long time to dry and set up

unfortunately these updates make the rest of the truck look like crap so heading to the parts store for more paint

also need to install a hitch and the really stout rear sway bar that finally showed up so definitely a work in progress
 

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That looks good already with the bull bar installed. Thanks for posting.
 
Replaced what might be the original rear shocks at 175K miles.
Should have never put the rear on ramps.....
Basically did pull ups for the most part of 3 hours :(

Front shocks were replaced months ago.
Now the ride feels like a brand new truck!!!
 

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Yeah the front would just bounce around as if just on springs until I replaced the fronts.
Hit a lifted bump on the Turnpike going through Philly a few years ago, it literally bounced the front of the truck off the ground (about a foot) & towards the guardrail about 1/4 a car length!

One drive last night on the new rear shocks.
Truck feels like its on rails!
used to do the same thing as the front but not as bad.
could feel the rear bouncing on all of the bumps.

Just surprised as I've only ever replaced struts in cars.
the change in the truck tho, is insane!
 
I'll be replacing the radiator, hoses and coolant as it has sprung a leak. Right after that, replace both lower control arm bushings, front swaybar bushings and end links. Using polyurethane bushings on the last two projects instead of rubber. Then, a five stage detail on the outside body. All I can say is, Thanks YouTube!! 👍🤓👍
 
NorgeMan said:
I'll be replacing the radiator, hoses and coolant as it has sprung a leak. Right after that, replace both lower control arm bushings, front swaybar bushings and end links. Using polyurethane bushings on the last two projects instead of rubber. Then, a five stage detail on the outside body. All I can say is, Thanks YouTube!! 👍🤓👍
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Consider replacing factory PlasticTanked 2Core Radiator with an AllAluminum 3Core\4Core Radiator
& factory 1.5" RubberHoses with StainlessFlex (easy cut+shape & slightly increases cooling capacity).
Recently did this; should have done it 10+ years ago; runs nice+cool year round, never above 188f.
Click here for more info.
2001.Ford_Cool.Rad~.0DXa.GIF

2001.Ford_Cool.Rad4_APFO.2173_1of4.GIF

2001.Ford_Cool.Rad4_APFO.2173_4of4.GIF
 
That is one beautiful radiator! Thanks alot for the insightful post. Yep, I purchased an aluminum one. I'm surprised the old one lasted 135,000 miles. What I find amazing is the cheap plastic thermostat housing unit is still going strong? 😳
 
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Question, looking for a 2010, ST XLT, 4.0L aluminum radiator? Is going to an aluminum radiator worth the extra money? Any suggestion where to source? Thanks RT Behm
 

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