DVDSWAN 02 Sport Trac Build/Maintenance thread

curtis james said:

The back tailgate does not get used as much as the ignition does so tumbler and key wear down so if you have a spare with better points on key i would try it and wiggle, this was a issue for a couple trucks i had, with no need for chip take to locksmith shop to have a key made should be cheaper if you take to them.

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dvdswan said:

So I tried to lock the tailgate today. Key wouldn't turn. Guessing the handle was probably changed and the lock cylinder wasn't swapped. So how hard is it to re-key the tailgate lock cylinder and does it have a lock actuator in the tailgate?

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dvdswan said:

Got to work on the ST again today. The plan was (that's never a good start, LOL) to replace the #3 injector. While I was at it I was going to install the t-stat housing and do both tensioners. I used the link below as a guide, pretty decent step-by-step.



Everything was going well until I found the injector sleeve for #3 was broken, most likely that was the cause of the misfire.

I wasn't real happy to see that. Looked at rockauto they were between $11 and $18 but I needed them today, so I called a couple parts stores and NAPA had them but they would have them until Monday or I could drive to store. Since it was only 30 miles away I went and got them and found out they thought they were gold sleeves at $42. (sigh) Bit the bullet I wanted to finish the truck today. Got home had to watch a video to see how you install them.



Finished that, installed injector and fuel rail on pass. side. Started on t-stat housing, removed it and went to clean the surface for the gasket...

I don't remember seeing a set pin... Hey why are there only 2 bolt holes I did 3. (sigh) Well, at least there was a good 1/4" sticking out of the lower intake. Got some Vise grips and tapped on the set screws and twisted. 5 minutes later...

VICTORY!!!!

Had to run to the local Ace Hardware and find a M6x1.00x80 bolt.

Replaced the l/s tensioner and then installed the new t-stat housing.

Didn't think much about it at the time but the coolant sensors were kind of loose, didn't think about replacing the gaskets with the o-rings from the plugs. (sigh) Everything when back together really smooth after that and started to refill the coolant. 1/2 way through the 2nd gallon I start hearing water dripping. Look underneath and sure enough (sigh) coolant dripping from front of engine. Grab a flashlight and searched to see if I missed a hose. Nope both coolant sensors were seeping. (explicitives followed)

So, I tried to just loosen intake and get to the sensors but no joy. So, I have to repull the intake on the 4th.

I swear this truck likes to fight me. LOL but I will succeed.


I do have a question though.

I think the PVC valve is bad because 1 and 4 intake runners were oily and gooey on the inside. A sticky gooey. Would the PVC cause this?

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Adam Smith said:

Did you ever figure this out?
I need to get a used tailgate from a salvage yard, but am wondering what the best course of action would be:
1. swap out the used tailgate locking mechanism, installing the current one I have (so the same key will work)
or
2. get the replacement tailgate lock cylinder rekeyed to match the current key
I have removed the plastic cover on the inside of my tailgate, but I have no idea how difficult it is to remove the locking mechanism. I realize the tailgate swap doesn't require any tools.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

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Adam Smith said:

Where did you get that aluminum t-stat housing?

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dvdswan said:

Nothing much today. Wife searching CL for stuff and found free bricks...

Made the truck look lowered.

View attachment 5401

View attachment 5402

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dvdswan said:

Got to spend some quality time with the ST today. I installed the BOSS radio I got a while back.

Hooked and installed the Charger and ApplePlay port also.

Put tape on the bottom port so I knew which one would be the ApplePlay or Charging port...

Finished installing the backup camera... punched a hole in the center plate and drilled a hole at the bottom of the tailgate...

Pulled wires through...

Ran tape around the wires to protect them from chaffing...

I bought some grommets to seal the bottom of tailgate....


cut a hole and fed the wires through and installed into tailgate...

installed a weatherproof connector...

ran the cable along the side of the cab...

and cleaned up the rest of the glass from the broken driver's window drama...

Drilled a hole by the rear body mount, then fed through an existing hole ( I believe the is factory)...

All connected up... I need to power it with reverse still.

I also fixed my connections for the topper for a cleaner look...

When I get a back glass and side glass for the topper, I'll hook up the connector to it...

Dave

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Adam Smith said:

I need to get a used tailgate from a salvage yard, but am wondering what the best course of action would be:
1. swap out the used tailgate locking mechanism, installing the current one I have (so the same key will work)
or
2. get the replacement tailgate lock cylinder rekeyed to match the current key
I have removed the plastic cover on the inside of my tailgate, but I have no idea how difficult it is to remove the locking mechanism. I realize the tailgate swap doesn't require any tools.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

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dvdswan said:

Question time. Apologize as this is long....

When doing the oil change I noticed the left front inner tire was almost bald, obviously the alignment is needing done. I was looking at doing the ball joints, TREs, and shocks. Since I don't have a press and UCAs and LCAs are cheap, I'm just going to get those.

As for the TREs,
(Q1) Do I really need to get new inners since they are just rods (no moving parts) into the steering rack?

I noticed a suspension kit More Information for MEVOTECH KIT111 and looked at the items sold separately and found the kit is 80.00 more than sold individually and if I don't need the inner TREs it will be 100.00 less. I plan on getting these Gabriel shocks https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8566&cc=1385355&pt=7556&jsn=317 and https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3020979&cc=1385355&pt=15174&jsn=322 as well. Once all that is installed, I can get tires.

(Q2) Are MEVOTECH products good quality?

As usual, I got sidetracked and went down a rabbit hole. Started looking at lift kits again.

I've been toying the idea of doing a TT and shackle then started looking at actual kits, 4" - 6" kits. Knowing the ST is basically a Ranger drivetrain I started searching all the threads. I found this thread Ranger lift kits can be used on Explorers? and post #18 explained everything I needed/wanted to know.

5 Inch Lift Kit | Multiple Makes & Models (Ford/Mazda) $1099.95

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/maxtrac-5-6-lift-kit-k883053c/_/R-FRFC-K883053C $850.14

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/superlift-4-lift-kit-k358/_/R-BGFG-K358 $1719.96

https://www.amazon.com/TORCH-Leveling-compatible-1998-2011-Ranger/dp/B07S5GDYD5?tag=seriouexplor-20 $119.95

I still leaning on doing the TT for about an 1-1/2" in the front and 1" shackle in the rear and fit 32s under it.

I guessing this will be November timeframe for front suspension, shocks, and possibly the TORCH kit as well as new tires. But I need to get the body mounts done first, hoping next weekend.

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